SOFTSPOT!! OH NO!

Gorilla Glue reacts with water and turns into a foam like substance similar to spray foam. If there is any moisture left in the foam core, this is what will happen.

My friend tried that to fill a small hole in his Old Town canoe, the outer layer was pierced, the inner layer was not. The foam core was wet and as soon as he put the glue, we noticed it foam forming. About 10 to 15 drops in the small hole resulted in a foam spot about 2 inches in diameter and maybe 3/8" thick.

It's water resistant once dry, but not when wet.

If you mean the Gorilla Epoxy, it might work, but I have no experience with it.

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Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84

As far as the inspection port in front of the pylons go, that would definitely make the hull weaker. We are really talking about a failure that is caused by sailing stress and not one from a collision. In a stress failure, the hull will bend upwards. In that type of failure, the deck will be the first part of the hull to begin to fail by starting to compress longitundinally along its length. When you put in a port you are removing deck material that would resist the compression. The adherance of the fiberglass resin to the port would not improve the strength. However, you could put a thicker layer of resin and glass around the port to improve the hulls resistance to compression but it will still be weaker as compared to an intact deck.
My 2 cents!

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Eric Weller
2006 F18 Capricorn
1980 H16
Keep the pointy side up!

Tchilds, I did a restoration on my 16 last year. I had soft spots in the usual place: just forward of the forward tramp support on both sides. I fixed one side with git rot, and the other side, thinking I'd save a buck, with Gorilla Glue. I recently noticed the side I repaired with GG is soft again, while the gitrot side is hard as a rock. I agree with Eric on his take on the role the upper deck plays in keeping the lower part of the hull intact: I've seen the upper deck with the soft spot distort in a wave like pattern under stress. Its very disconcerting to see when you're in 15 gusting to 20. I found the cheapest place to get gitrot is on, of all places, Amazon: 32oz for about $58 plus $3 shipping.

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Mims, FL

Yeah epoxies probably work best because they don't expand like you're saying the gorilla glue did. I just mean I wish I'd repaired it with some cheap resin or something else. Not exactly gorilla glue. I just see people suggesting that around here and a few people said it works.

I also think that makes sense about the deck compressing. It just seems the hatch won't compress any worse than it already does. If anything I'd be worried about it ripping apart due to a hole, not compressing. It is basically two big arches and from an architectural stand point that doesn't seem all bad for compression.

I did a similar size repair, same spot two years ago and it's still rock solid. Make sure you use the slow hardener because the injection is a slow process. Drill holes throughout the soft spot in the outer out fiberglass layer only (use a drill stop about 1/8"). Holes should be 1-1.5" apart. In my case she shavings that came out were wet, so I purchased a heat lamp and let the spot dry for a few days before injecting. While injecting, start from the lower holes and inject until epoxy oozes out of the neighboring holes; then seal the hole with masking tape. Jamestown distributors sells syringes with a pointed tip that are ideal for this job. Medical syringes are not suitable as you can't insert them in the hole.

105-B West System epoxy
206-B slow hardener

For this size soft spot, you will need about 1qt of each. Calibrated pumps for the epoxy are highly recommended.
It's not hard at all - don't be intimidated

Check out "Reefingbuddha's" buckled hulls in the "Help With Repairs" forum. Damn shame his beautiful restoration failed like that.....

http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=27482&start=30

I keep seeing people dis Gorilla Glue for use on boats. Not sure why...

It is very strong and I have used it on several outdoor projects that get a lot of water on the every year.

According to the manufacturer the glue is 100% waterproof after it cures.

This quote from the Gorilla Glue site:

"100% WATERPROOF – does not break down when exposed to outdoor elements. Easily passes ANSI/HPVA HP-1-2000 Types 1 and 2."

Ed

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'76 Hobie 16

I'm a big fan of Gorilla Glue. I did some informal testing on it before I put it in my hull and I liked the results. All I can say is, the side I used Git Rot on is still rock hard, while the GG side is not.

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Mims, FL

Like Bill Engvall would say: "Here's your sign"

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Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84

Everyone recommends the slow hardener. I used it and the repairs took all day because I was constantly back in the house after each injection waiting almost an hour. I wish I had used the 205 or whatever the quick hardener is. Slow made this job so annoying. Your results may vary. I was working in optimal conditions too fyi... If it had been 10 degrees hotter out or working in the sun I think maybe the 206 would have worked for me best.

The reason I had to inject so much was the interior fiberglass was perforated. Inside glass was so bad it leaked the epoxy right through many many holes/cracks. I feel that the repair would have worked better with less epoxy if I had injected the tops of the decks with the hulls flipped upside down. This would have saved me about $20 in epoxy atleast! The first $20 or so I put in just leaked through the holes and did nothing until I figured out what was going on. Thank god inspection ports were there to work through or I would have injected ALL my epoxy before realizing none of it was sticking between the hulls. If you can't see inside the hulls then definitely keep gravity on your side by flipping the side you're working on gelcoat DOWN. Don't inject too much epoxy at once... it should be coming out the air holes pretty quickly and if it isn't you have a leak like mine.

If you don't have a leak, like I had while injecting, then don't go through the stress of flipping the hulls around and stuff. It isn't necessary. Knowing what I know now, I probably could have used thickener/filler in the epoxy to prevent the leaking I described.

The calibrated pumps are a must too. Made this job so simple. They even have a little ball bearing in them that seals off the gunk and prevents a vacuum! Very nice little pumps. Just don't lose any of the instructions or lil straw extensions that comes in the pump kit.

Just don't do what I did and inject $20 worth of epoxy into no where. I think with everything for this job I spent about $110 at my local shop. Probably not worth it! lol I should have gotten a whole gallon of vinyl ester resin from Home Depot for $30 and just filled it. I doubt this boat lasts another 10 years and the epoxy will probably last another 30 =P Oh well at least its fixed "right" lol. Even if that $110 and half a days work added about $1 to the value of my hobie. The way I see it, I'm learning and everything is a new experience. Live and learn. Next time I'm going with cheapo stuff. I mean hell these deck repairs on 30 year old boats that everyone worries about so much aren't even below the water line! The "cheap" resin held up for 30 years before a soft spot appeared didn't it? Why is epoxy required to fix a boat and not the original materials it was built out of? (epoxy is stickier for sure) but resin is sticky too fyi. Further more its a decades old day sailer, not a yacht in mooring. My next hobie deck repair is going BONDO styles and for $10 I don't care if it lasts more than a decade! Beats spending $100. What I'm trying to say here is I've realized I'm either going cheapo on a cheap boat or buying a much newer 16. Dumping money into an old 16 doesn't get me any closer to the ones I can't afford. It doesn't get the boat any closer either. If you can't transfer what you're buying to another hobie 16 you would buy.... then just buy another hobie 16! That's what is working for me personally. I know a lot of people who enjoy their 30 year old hobie and have worked diligently to maintain it with the proper techniques and materials. They are nice boats even if not competitive still very nice.

So to each his own but figure out what works best for you. I'm on a shoe string budget so my comments are obviously biased. Boats cost money, some day I'll just have to let it go!