Trampoline line

What size and type works best, I just bought a older Hobie and want to upgrade it .
thanks

Just try the search feature. For most of your questions, you should find a wealth of information. Many of these topics have been discussed numerous times and should give you a very good idea of what to use and how to make many repairs. Also, check the "Hobie Sailing FAQ section for answers to most all how-to technical questions.

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'88 Nationals Blue
Hobie Alter Signature Model
Sail #11

Hobie Mirage Classic

The parts diagrams in the catalog or the part area of the site show the type and lengths required.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

See: http://www.hcana.hobieclass.com/default.asp?id=2169

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Hobie Cat 16 1987
Pringle 16 1979 (sold)
Hobie Cat 14 Turbo (sold)
Subaru Outback 2008 BlackPearl

When I redid my Hobie I went with the mentality we use on the bigger boats, smaller and lighter is best. I just grabbed a spool of spectra from my local marina and redid the entire tram with that. It makes it super tight and stiff, and the spectra doesn't hold any water so it doesn't rot or get sopping, dripping wet. Cost me about 30 bucks for the spectra. I used a piece of 1x2 to get the tension on it and just took my time, tightening the whole way. Hope that helps, it's worked wonders for me.

Isn't this like super overkill for a tramp lacing? Isn't this spectra stuff like kevlar or something? Just curious....what do you cut or whip it with?

The best I've used for cutting dyneema/spectra is scissors made for cutting the spectra fishing lines.

Better than whipping, I just tuck it back into itself. No loose ends that way.

Might be something to try for trapeze lines.

Not class legal on the H16. Although I don't know why any class would ban them. They're easy to make, cheaper, and every bit as durable. Plus you don't have to deal with kinked up trap lines.

I had dyneema trap lines on the FXone, and now on the new boat. I've seen the light and gotten rid of the can't miss handles for the dog-bone style, and also got rid of the black adjustment deal. Just a UHMW stopper I cut with a hole saw going against a spliced loop that is luggage tagged to a sister clip. Adjust length of the return line to set the height of the bottom hole on the dog-bone, use the top hole if it lightens up a bit.



Man technology is cool. Took a pic with my phone, uploaded it to Facebook, hotlinked it here. Took probably 1-1/2 minutes total.

The pink handles are teh ghey. NTTAWWT.

Suits you well, Karl.

The good news is that I'm still able to type one-eyed after being partially blinded by that GORGEOUS handle....seriously, what is the reasoning behind ditching the can't-miss handles for the dog bones?

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'81 H16

If it ain't a blowin', I ain't a goin'

I use the dog bones on the 14 - you need to be able to change heights for medium air / waves when the lower hole is just too low.

On the 16 and 17 though - the Can't Miss (AKA J & H handles [Jeff and Hobie]) are the handle of choice. You don't need to adjust your height like you do on the 14.

The dog bones will knock your teeth out if you're not careful. Crew's revenge is to let them fly when they come in off the wire - right into the skip's face.

Ahhhhh that's great, crew's revenge....I see clearly now, 'bones on the 14. I have a 16 and use J&H, guess I'll live to sail another day....

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'81 H16

If it ain't a blowin', I ain't a goin'

Crappy camera phone. They're the red Ronstan ones. Now the blue ones, are pretty limp looking.

I don't think I could go back to the can't miss handles. On the low hole I'm almost past parallel with the tramp, not quite Ashby low, but I'm getting there.