Jim check the “Deluxe Adjustable Trapeze Rig” (catalog #1203).
http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive/support/pdfs/12_15.pdf
I would bury the dogbones or use them for a nice key-ring. They present a too small target for hook up, especially under pressure. Worse yet, they get swinging around and hurt like the dickens when they bean you.

If you don’t do anything else, replace with J&H handles (part 2004). The primary advantage of the handles is the big hook-up target – you can connect by feel while your attention is on other things - sailing the boat for example

They also give you a handle that is lower on the wire allowing you to leverage your weight when you just want to lean out for a moment- handy in puffs.
The best trap arrangement uses the Deluxe rig and J& H handle. This gives you flexibility in adjustment and no swinging parts. Here's the order of assembly- (refer to the catalog photo to get a clear idea the parts I refer to here)
1) Attach Fiddle/Jam block to thimble at end of trap wire with clevis pin at top of block.
2) Attach J & H handle to smaller block hanging below fiddle/jam block.
3) Attach 5/16's shockcord to the Bottom of the handle using shockcord snap hook- Run under tramp to other side. The length of this bungee should be just snug but not stretched when handle pairs are in the lowest position. The lowest position is when the stopper balls on the adjuster are up against the jam block.
With this arrangement you don’t have anything swinging around because the J&H handle is held secure to the rail by the bungee and the little stopper-ball on the adjuster is snug up to the jam block. Neat. Sweet. Petite.
Trapping out:
1) Hook up-With the J&H in the lower “stowage” position, straddle the shock cord. (One of the reasons you don’t want the bungee too tight – delicate body parts can suffer.

) Grab the J&H by its handy center-mounted handle and slip the lower half of the loop under your harness buckle. Quickly lift the handle securely up into the buckle using the adjuster rope. You should feel the buckle lift indicating that your waist is secure to the wire. Jam the adjustment line snug at that height. This is really the reason for an adjustable height- not so much for changing while you are out on the wire- you have enough to do once your out there.
2) Getting out- Now, cleat the main out enough that you are moving but not battling the wind and trying to stay upright. Hold the sheet in your forward hand. Hold the tiller extension in your other hand. Hint: don’t grab the sheet in the palm of your hand- you are not trying to control it- it is cleated. Instead, drape the sheet over the back of your hand and under your thumb
just to maintain contact with it. This leaves your hand open and free for all of these maneuvers. Grasp the upper, wire-mounted, trap handle with your sheeting hand and lean your back out. Keep your arm STRAIGHT- DO NOT LIFT yourself -
feel your weight on the harness. You should pretty much have your butt over the rail by now. Here’s the biggest trick: FORGET the trapeze, trust it, let go of the upper handle, get your feet on the rail, and lean. You need to forget the trap because you should now be concentrating on the tiller extension and the main sheet- steering and sheeting in.
3) Coming in: A particularly beautiful part of this set up is that when you come in quickly, you tend to come in high so that, as you are landing back on the rail, the trap practically unhooks itself. Pretty cool and makes for an awesome roll-tacking move when you have it all together.
Anyway, this is the best system you can use in my opinion. It SHOULD come with every Hobie. If it did though, we wouldn't spend our money on little parts to benefit “The Hobie Lifestyle”- ie the lifestyle of the Alter Empire

:
Peace out, and GO FOR IT!!