As promised pictures of my boat!! Thanks for all the help!

http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/ab238/scottrespess/End%20of%20July%202010%20Hobie%20Pics/

It's a work in progress. It's scummy right now, but last year I had restored the fiberglass somewhat. It was really oxidized extremely bad.

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Scott Respess

1984 Hobie 16
Plum Crazy Nationals

OK, I see how your jib travellers were rigged now.

The line goes from the outer hole in the Tren-Tec car, over the sidebar and under the trampoline to the lance cleat on the far side. It works, but there's a lot of friction in the system, since there's no turning block (the sidebar acts as the "turning block").

MBounds thanks for the comments. I really had no clue as to how the control lines were operated until now. The reason why I bought the cheek blocks is to turn on them and then position another set of swivel cam cleats for the control lines.

I have seen pictures here which depict this set up that I just described and they appear to be easily operable.

So, do I need to sell those gigantic cheeks and start over with the 40 mm???

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Scott Respess

1984 Hobie 16
Plum Crazy Nationals

Yes - the cheek blocks can be very small. Before the new boats came with the integrated turning blocks in the front casting, we would use Harken bullet or micro blocks. The control line should be 3/16". Swivel cam cleats are overkill for the control lines. Lance cleats work just fine - although the ones on your boat are toast. They've seen too much salt water.

Bullet:


Micro:

Also, what about the position of the swivel cams that are handling the jib sheet itself? They look too far inboard AND forward on the crossbar to me and would bring a lot of unwanted friction going in and out of the trentec car.

On mine they are further outboard as well as aft and are lined up with the inboard endcap of the track. Still some friction I know, but they aren't making such an extreme turn 100% of the time. In fact, your single swivel cam cleats look like they are in the exact same position as my outhaulers....interesting.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 0310_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 1711_n.jpg

(yes I did install swivel cams for the outhauler b/f I understood them to be overkill....hindsight, eh?)

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'81 H16

If it ain't a blowin', I ain't a goin'

The inboard position is not all that bad. You can reduce the friction in the system by

1) Installing a roller fairlead (instead of the bullseye) on the swivel cleat:


2) Use a shackle to attach a Harken swivel bullet block to the smaller, inboard hole of the Tren-tec car (you can still use the hole for the bungee cord once the shackle is through). You'll need to grind down the "ears" of the shackle so it'll fit through the hole.

That way, the jib sheet never takes a turn without going around something that rotates.

I set up a system like that for my crew (wife) who had limited arm strength - I raced with that set up for 20+ years before I got one of the boats with the integrated system in 1998.

MBound. If I get a harken Ti Lite block wouldn't that work the same as having the swivel block no more than it should turn??? Just thinking that would be an easy install.

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Scott Respess

1984 Hobie 16
Plum Crazy Nationals

Very cool mbounds, thanks. I'll think about the swivel bullet on the trentec car.

I did actually try to modify the bull's eye cams running my jib sheet and the roller kit wouldn't fit. ??? The large round head rivet was too big and interfered with the rollers. Check this out:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 6678_n.jpg

I took the two roller kits back to the hobie shop and told them they won't fit and they just kind of shrugged, which surprised me because they have always been so helpful in the past and have always been right about the gear.

Is this a known issue?

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'81 H16

If it ain't a blowin', I ain't a goin'

JMan his pic had a flat rivet.. Interesting. Wondering if the roller fairleads go with newer hardware?

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Scott Respess

1984 Hobie 16
Plum Crazy Nationals

Yes, and also I noticed the same thing at the shop. The factory installed rollers were also a little higher in the fitting as they sit on a small, additional plate, just like in the picture above.

I also see in the picture above that the rollers themselves do not taper all the way up and down like the kit I tried (and showed), and are instead "squared" vertically at the top and bottom edges which ensures they miss that big rivet, IF there was a big round head rivet of course and IF they were used as an upgrade kit, which in this case they aren't. Even more confusing.

I thought about modifying the modification and adding the little thin plate myself but decided against it as the there weren't enough threads on the screws. I can't understand why they would manufacture and sell the roller upgrade kits if they won't fit the intended swivel cam cleat with the stock bull's eye. ???

Could it be that I'm mixing brands? The ones I bought weren't packaged and I don't recall a brand, and the same goes for the roller upgrade kit. It's a small shop and they appear to only have one set of this type of gear, and all looks similar enough that I always thought it must be the same brand.

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'81 H16

If it ain't a blowin', I ain't a goin'