Aussie jib halyard installation

I bought Murray's jib halyard kit. I am not sure where to install the halyard fairlead that came with it.
1. How far below the mast tang?
2. Should it be on the front of the mast (centerline) right below the or could the halyard be routed down the side of the mast (to avoid jib battens catching on it)

Thanks
Drago

I'd attach it to the mast tang instead of drilling more holes in the mast.

Do NOT use the same shackle as the forestay. If something breaks you've got a backup to keep the mast standing. Don't ask me how I know.

Buy a small cheek block. Position on the same side of the mast as the cleat, just above where the top batten hits the mast and all the way to the rear of the mast. Make sure it's not too far back or you'll end up with a hole in the sail track. Pop rivet it on. Use rivet casings and a little silicon to make them water tight.

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no need to install anything except the halyard! i did it, and its been 100% functional. see picture.

mount it all up, use the cheek block near the bottom of the mast below the cleat to raise, and cleat off. good to go. It runs close enough to the mast when raised so there isnt a problem to warrant drilling new holes to mount the fairlead

All that fairlead is going to do is chafe the halyard, so i chose not to install and i see no ill effects. Like i said, when raised, the line is close to the mast anways (IF you reeve the block correctly)

Also, the Murrays A Halyard has a pigtail....one for the forestay, and one for the block for the halyard. Attaches to the mast via the large shackle on the bottom.



pictured is my old starboard shroud, then the a. halyard assembly pigtail, then my new port side shroud on the shackle from top to bottom.


IMPORTANT!!!! re-tie the knot on the lower block of the a. halyard assembly. I didnt even check it (it came assembled from Murrays) and had my jib come down on a sail because of this kntt. I then had to purposely capsize the boat to re-attach!

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1981 Hobie 16
1982 Hobie 14 turbo (sold)
1996 SeaDoo GTI
1999 Hunter 340

Thanks for all the info and pic!
I already installed the fairlead, about 18" below the tang, about 90 degrees to port on the side of the mast. I changed the forestay - new one is made specifically with the Aussie halyard in mind and has a built-in pigtail, so I am not using the one from Murray.

Also shortened the battens as much as possible. Went sailing on Sunday, the battens are still getting stuck in light wind. This can be very annoying!
Very good idea about the cheek blocks - maybe I should try that and/or hinged battens.

What about a batten-less jib - does anyone have any experience? (I don't race)

The Hobie 16 jib is larger than the triangle it has to pass through. You can get a smaller jib and have less power, but learning to push the jib through in conditions that require it is the way to go. It's pretty easy. Grab the batten at the aft end and push forward to bend it and then push the jib through the gap.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Ive got a batten-less jib..non-Hobie of course.

can you post of picture of your a. halyard? you said you got it from Murrays? shouldn't it look the same as mine?

the batten-less jib is a little smaller than the Hobie obviously, it doesn't have such a big roach. It works. I'm sure the boat is de-powered because of the loss of sail area....

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1981 Hobie 16
1982 Hobie 14 turbo (sold)
1996 SeaDoo GTI
1999 Hunter 340

Don't use hinged battens. They'll wear a hole in the batten pocket.

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