Righting line

When I got my boat last year, the previous owner had a half inch no stretch rope attached to one aft pylon, going around the fore pylons, than back to the other aft pylon. With no stretch in the line, I'm guessing it would be hard or impossible to right the boat.

I noticed I have 2 blocks, one on each aft casting. Just wondering how that can be used with bungee in combination with a righting line. The diagram in the catalog for the Easy Right (Hawaiian style) seems it could make use of those 2 blocks, but still can't figure out how to route the line.

Thanks,
Marc...

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Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84

Go to page 18 of the Hobie sailboat parts and accessories catalog.

In the middle of the page you will see a diagram next to the "EASY UP Favored Hawaiian style righting line system and trapeze safety line".

Seems to me like you only need another block attached to a bungie to pull the slack under the tramp.

That's what I can't figure out from looking at the diagram. The lines are double in some places, it's not clear what is rope and what's bungee.

In the bag of spare parts I got with the boat, there is a bungee and an extra block.

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Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84

Yea, that looked a little confusing to me too.

I thought that the center line was showing the path of the bungie and the angled lines were represnting the righting line, but as I have never seen one I could be wrong.

All I have is a single line tied to the dolfin striker and laced into the tramp where I can retreive it from the bottom and throw it over the hull.

I have a tow line stored that way that could double as a righting line, but I'd rather have a dedicated righting line.

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Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84

I've been thinking of getting the webbing type righting line with the bungie inside. That way it could also be used as training wheels for new crew when they try to go out on the wire and end up with a one-way ticket to the stern instead

For the Hawaiian righting system, you tie a block to the center of the bottom of the rear crossbar (or tramp lacing). Then tie a bungee cord to the dolphin striker and lead it back through the pulley on the rear crossbar. Then tie a second large pulley to the end of the bungee cord. The second pulley has to be large enough that your righting line passes through.

Tie one end of your righting line to the transom of one hull, lead it forward around the front pylon, then back through the pulley (second pulley connected to the bungee), then forward to the front pylon on the opposite hull, and finally back to the transom on the opposite hull. The bungee cord pulls the slack out of the righting line when not in use.

The thing I always disliked about this system is that whenever you need to actually use the righting line, you end up fighting the tension from the bungee cord. I now just use a long piece of line tied up under the tramp. It takes slightly longer to use, but it works better during the actual righting process.

sm

Thanks SM. That was the info I could not figure out.

But now that I have the info with your added comments, I'm tempted to just use my tow line. Do you tie it to the upper rear pylon or the upper stern when righting?

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Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84

I tie the righting line to dolphin striker post using a bowline knot. Then run it aft, pass it up through one of the center tramp lacings and then back down under the tramp and run it back forward to the dolphin striker again. Pass it around the dolphin strker and tie it back off to itself using half hitches.

To right the boat, I undo the half hitches, pull the line out of the tramp lacing, and throw it over the hull. Then throw a wrap around my trap harness, hold the line with my hand and lean back.

sm

Seems like a lot of untying and tying to use the line. I just reach over the top hull, grab my line and pull. I have enough slack that I can put it behind my back and lean on it. With 2 of us that works fine. When solo, I need the extension of my arms to get enough leverage to get it to come over. I also have the flexibility to move forward and aft quite a bit. This sometimes helps to get the sail out of the water.
When it come over, all I have to do is jump under the top hull to the opposite one and hang on so that it doesn't keep going and tip over the other way. Then up on the tramp and I'm sailing.

Compared to a system that requires no untieing? Yea, probably. But it really only takes a few seconds to undo. Plus it's simple and allows me to move anywhere on the hull. I don't flip much (knock on wood) so it's fine for my needs. I had the hawaiian righting on several boats and never liked how the bungee was always fighting me. I like using a plain line and my trap harness a lot more than hanging off my arms.

sm

Does either method provide better leverage? I'm an experienced sailor, but new to Hobies. So far, I haven't gone over, yet I'd like to rig whichever is best for easy righting.

I weigh about 160, and my regular sailing partner is about 110# - sounds like we're on the light side without a righting bucket, so I'm looking for as much leverage as possible.

The type of righting system does not directly effect the amount of leverage (righting moment) you have. The righting moment is only effected by how heavy you are and the distance from your center of mass to the center of rotation (the bottom hull). So tall heavy people that are able to lay out the flattest will have the easiest time righting the boat.

That said, the type of righting system can effect how easy it is for you to lay out flat. I found that with the hawaiian system, I would be fighting the bungee cord. And if the line isn't set to the right length it can make things difficult. With just a plain piece of line, I can easily wrap the line around my harness hook two times and hold it in my hand. Then lean back and let my trap harness support my weight. I can pretty much stand like that all day.

sm

With either system you have to make sure that the line is over the top hull. The hawaiian system is rigged so it goes over the hull and I imagine that you toss the free line over the top hull before leaning out. If the line is between the hulls you are losing a lot of leverage.
If I get the bows pointed into the wind and the wind is blowing (why would I be over on my side if it was not) then I can right the boat solo. I am 5'8" and 200 lbs. Also 53 years old. If I hook my harness to the hawaiian line, I am just above the water with pretty good leverage.
Another aid to righting is to walk aft and forward quickly. This will sometimes help break the main out of the surface.
Whatever system you use, practice with it. Flip over on purpose and become proficient. This will build confidence and make it comfortable for you to sail the boat like it should be. If you are always backing off because you are afraid of a capsize you will never be getting the most from the boat. Learn to right the boat and sail it like you mean it. Don't sell yourself short. With your combined weight and a coordinated effort this will become routine. Have a great sailing summer.

I flipped over for the first time on Memorial day and had a hard time righting the boat. It happened suddenly in a gust. It went full turtle (no bob). I had the stock righting line tied between the two front pylons; untied it from one and and somehow managed to bring the cat up from turtle to capsize position (mast sideways in the water). From that point, I just couldn't bring it up by myself although I weigh 191lb. Luckily a guy from a passing motor boat jumped in and helped me right it.

1. Do I need a righting bucket?
2. Maybe a harness will help me lean back more?
3. Which bob should I get - Hobie, Mama or Baby? (leaning towards baby bob)?