HiFiRobbie wrote:
Wow. My jib doesn't seen to overlap the mast anywhere near as much. Especially at the clew plate where I'm pretty sure I have at least a few inches clearance.
Are there many different cuts/shapaes around??
The clew plate clearance is highly dependent on 1) mast rake (more rake=less clearance) and 2) where you attach the jib tack on the forestay adjuster (lower=less clearance).
In general, you want to rake the mast back as far as you can and still get firm leech tension on the main when sheeted in all the way. Then you tack the jib as low as you can and still get firm leech tension on the jib when sheeted in all the way. It's a bit of a guessing game, since static settings on the beach will not reflect accurately the dynamic conditions when sailing. Once you find the right settings, mark them so you can remember them the next time you set up the boat.
The original Hobie 16 jib had a single hole clew plate. In the mid-'70s, the current 5-hole clew plate was introduced. In 2000, the cut of the jib changed slightly - longer in the luff and shorter on the foot - to allow more mast rake. The area remained the same. Those are the only significant changes to the shape of the Hobie 16 jib in over 40 years.
The aftermarket roller-furling jib does not have battens and does not overlap the mast.
When sailing solo, I find the easiest way to bring the jib across in a tack is to let it backwind (fill from the wrong side) much longer than I would when sailing doublehanded. Once pointed in the direction of the new tack, I release the weather jib sheet, give it a lot of slack, allow it to blow across and sheet in on the new tack. You need to have sheets that run freely through the system. Smaller diameter (7 mm), very flexible line (a "soft hand") and well running hardware are key.