Miscellaneous questions for Hobie 16's

Just read a thread about tramp lacing, which seemed to indicate that the tramp was part of the structure that keeps the boat "tight". Is that really true? Do you want to have it laced as tightly as possible? Don't you risk pulling out the grommets? Can it be too tight? I installed mine when I assembled the boat. I retightened things after a few weeks of sailing. Do I need to keep retightening the lacing?

Also, I read a thread recently about tightening up the shrouds. I cannot step the mast if the shrouds are lower than the top hole of the shroud adjuster. Is it better, once the mast is up, to lower the shrouds in the adjuster, essentially taking out the slack and reducing side to side play of the mast? It changes the goemetry of the boat, but again, what is the purpose of shortening the shrouds and is it really necessary?

On my boat (2011) the dolphin striker came pre-installed. Is there any need to check or re-tighten the nuts holding it to the castings? Is there a guide for how many ft/lbs are needed on the nuts?

I have been considering getting rid of my front stay adjuster and going with a simple ring. What is the point of a stay adjuster on the bridles if you have an aussie jib system? I just installed a spi and would love to get rid of this as a possible point for the spi sail to get hung up.

After sailing, it may be a few days before I can get to a spot to drain the hulls. They don't collect much water, but there is always something in there. I typically spray in some fresh water then drain them. Are there any "non-fiberglass" components used in the construction of the hulls? Asked another way, does leaving water in the hulls for a few days or a week risk decay of any internal wooden structure or are the hulls made purely of fiberglass construction? And, how does water get in there, anyway? Through the posts?

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Stayin' Thirsty...
2011 Hobie 16SE
Atlanta, GA

The tramp does play a role in stiffening the frame of the boat, particularly on the 14 & 16. For racing, most people keep it drum tight. For recreational sailing, a little looser is ok. You do run the risk of pulling out grommets if you go overboard.

On the 16, the rig should be very slack until the jib halyard is tensioned and there should be no need to loosen the shrouds to step the boat. Sounds like your forestay may be too short. Many people run two stay adjusers at the bridle wire junction to allow the forestay to be very loose. The reason you have adjusters on the bridle wires is to allow different settings for the jib tack. Changing the postion of the shrouds allows you to run at different mast rakes.

It is definitley a good idea to check the dolphin striker periodically to make sure its tight. Hit it with your palm- if it rattles or goes 'thunk' it's too lose. If it goes 'twang' it's good. Sorry, but that's as precise as it gets when it comes to Hobies.

Having a little water in the hulls for a few days is no big deal. However, over the long term, its best to keep them as dry as possible to help prevent delam. You may even go as far as to install inspection ports to allow the hulls to air out.

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I keep the shrouds very loose until the mast is stepped (in the top hole of the adjuster). The issue is getting the mast stepper disconnected if the shrouds are any tighter. However, once the mast is up and the stepper is disconnected, there is a lot of slack in the forestay and shrouds. Once the jib is raised, everything seems to tighten up. My question is, before raising the jib, is there any reason to lower the position of the shrouds in the stay adjuster?

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Stayin' Thirsty...
2011 Hobie 16SE
Atlanta, GA

No.

The first time I rigged my boat, I could not get the forestay to the bridle without moving the shrouds to the top hole. Not sure what the deal was, but my only thought is that the previous owner had 2 chainplates in there before he sold it to me. There was even tape wrapped around the shroud adjusters, so I'm pretty sure he didn't move them regularly.

Now, I use the top hole to step, and then move to the fourth hole down before tensioning the rig.

Am I doing it wrong???

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'97 Hobie 16.

Skype: rob_arnolda

Not necessarily, but you are making more work for yourself than need be.

You should be able to step the mast and connect the forestay without further adjustment of the shrouds. If the forestay won't reach, then use two adjusters.