Return to Hobie.com
Hobie Forums
It is currently Thu Sep 11, 2025 3:16 pm

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: I NEED HELP. soft hull
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 5:21 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2011 7:49 pm
Posts: 1
i just bought a hobie 16. when we looked at it bolth me and my dad pushed down on the hulls and they were very solid. now the right hull is flexing about 1/4 inch.
1 is that alot?
2 can i sail it or is it junk?
3 how could this happen i bought it literally a week ago and it was solid then.
4 is this going to ruin the structural integrity of the hull?
5 should i try to fix it or just buy a new boat and switch the hulls?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 9:11 am 
Offline
Site Admin

Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 15090
Location: Oceanside, California
This needs to be fixed. Softness ahead of the forward pylon is a structural problem.

The boat may have been un-used for some time and the core degraded and failed when you sailed it.

It is not trash. You can repair it.

http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=1156

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:25 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 12:14 pm
Posts: 63
Location: Fort Myers, FL
I've had a soft spot in front of my pylons for a while now. I still sail it with no issues but I really want to fix it, the repair says to use "laminating resin". What specific product should be used in the repair process?

_________________
'73 Hobie 16
1970's styrofoam snark

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 11:03 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 8:15 am
Posts: 495
Location: Saint John, NB Canada sailing on Washademoak Lake
Image

_________________
Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 6:48 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 9:52 am
Posts: 135
Location: Latrobe, PA, USA *** Show YOUR Location - Edit Profile ! ***
Yes, the provided links are helpful BUT... (without doing a complete forum search- I'm tired right now :? )

The Product Support document describes "very small" breather holes at the periphery and a larger central hole. So what size holes have others used effectively? I might think that "very small" is 1/32" and someone else thinks 1/8" is...

And why the mystery about how deep to drill? Do the layers vary much from working on an H16 vs. H14 vs. H17, etc.? Can't we be more specific, based on original design or at least accumulated experience? How does one know they are drilling to the bottom glass layer without drilling through it? And when I inexplicably do drill through it- and have a new 'vent hole'- what then?

And then it says "plug all holes when area is filled"... OK, with what?

Does "gel coat putty" come in small tubes or do I have to buy a half-gallon for the 1/2 oz. needed to finish out these holes? How do I get this putty to match the hull color?

Seems like a lot of new repairers will have to be reinventing wheels with these slightly sparse directions... Maybe this whole common process could be improved by providing more details directly in the referred documents?

_________________
Raise your sail one foot, and you get ten feet of wind.
起你的一只帆,和你10英尺的。 -- Chinese Proverb
William D. Latinette @ Latrobe, PA, USA w. H14 Turbo X 2... [email protected]


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 7:56 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 8:15 am
Posts: 495
Location: Saint John, NB Canada sailing on Washademoak Lake
I'm new and read the Hotline article, then went ahead with the repair.

_________________
Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:35 am 
Offline
Hobie Approved Guru

Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 5198
Location: Detroit, MI
wildlatin wrote:
Yes, the provided links are helpful BUT... (without doing a complete forum search- I'm tired right now :? )

The Product Support document describes "very small" breather holes at the periphery and a larger central hole. So what size holes have others used effectively? I might think that "very small" is 1/32" and someone else thinks 1/8" is...

You're way over thinking this. The center hole needs to be large enough to accommodate the nozzle on the Git-Rot bottle (which depends on where you cut it off) - or the syringe you use to inject the resin. So the size depends on the tool you plan to use. There's no mystery there.

The breather holes are just that - they're there to let air out, so they can be very small.

wildlatin wrote:
And why the mystery about how deep to drill? Do the layers vary much from working on an H16 vs. H14 vs. H17, etc.? Can't we be more specific, based on original design or at least accumulated experience?

There's no mystery here, either. There's lots of pictures of sawn-through hulls out on the Internet. (Google Image Search "Hobie hull section" - it's the fourth result.) You can easily see how thick the laminate is - and how the foam tapers towards the edge of the deck. So again, it depends - on where you're drilling.

wildlatin wrote:
How does one know they are drilling to the bottom glass layer without drilling through it?

Some common sense applies here. Since the consequences are considerable for drilling through the bottom layer - don't drill that far with a power tool. The top fiberglass layer is hard and very thin - about 3/32". Just pierce it with the drill, then stop. Using the drill bit only between your fingers, spin it through the soft foam until you feel it hit the bottom layer. No worries.

wildlatin wrote:
And when I inexplicably do drill through it- and have a new 'vent hole'- what then?

Mix a small batch of resin, thicken to peanut butter consistency with Cab-o-Sil or WEST 407 and dab it into the hole with a toothpick. Let it go off and start over - but don't drill a hole in the place you just patched. Alternatively, you could use something like Formula 27 or Bondo. It's essentially the same thing.

wildlatin wrote:
And then it says "plug all holes when area is filled"... OK, with what?

To get the absolute cleanest repair, use masking tape to protect the surface - drill the holes through the tape. When the injected resin start to ooze from the holes, put a piece of tape over the hole to keep it from oozing and force the resin to other holes. Once the resin has gone off, peel off all the tape.

You can leave the repair as-is, but you'll have "freckles" on the boat that will get darker when exposed to the sun. (Epoxy turns brown when exposed to UV light.)

To get the "invisible" repair, you need to slightly sand each hole to provide a spot to put some thickened gel coat (putty). You create a small, dish shaped depression about the size of a dime over each hole. Use a plastic spreader to fill the dishes, sand and polish. Not everyone wants to take the time to do this, and that's OK. It's a purely cosmetic step.

wildlatin wrote:
Does "gel coat putty" come in small tubes or do I have to buy a half-gallon for the 1/2 oz. needed to finish out these holes?

Again, Google is your friend - http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... Repair+Kit

wildlatin wrote:
How do I get this putty to match the hull color?

That's an art. I've never had luck matching anything but white. Another argument for making the injection/breather holes as small as possible.

wildlatin wrote:
Seems like a lot of new repairers will have to be reinventing wheels with these slightly sparse directions... Maybe this whole common process could be improved by providing more details directly in the referred documents?

So, you're volunteering to document the process more thoroughly? Take lots of pictures. You might find your work published in the HOTLINE.

Seriously, it's great that Hobie Cat has provided the basics. Look at it this way - does GM provide detailed instructions on how to fix rusted out areas on their 30 year old cars?

There's tons of further information out on the Internet if you look for it. This repair method is not unique to Hobie Cats.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 8:33 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 9:52 am
Posts: 135
Location: Latrobe, PA, USA *** Show YOUR Location - Edit Profile ! ***
MBounds wrote:
...
So, you're volunteering to document the process more thoroughly? Take lots of pictures. You might find your work published in the HOTLINE.

Seriously, it's great that Hobie Cat has provided the basics. Look at it this way - does GM provide detailed instructions on how to fix rusted out areas on their 30 year old cars?

There's tons of further information out on the Internet if you look for it. This repair method is not unique to Hobie Cats.
Good points and good answers... like I said I was tired... over-Googled(?) at the time. Your clarifications are appreciated!

_________________
Raise your sail one foot, and you get ten feet of wind.
起你的一只帆,和你10英尺的。 -- Chinese Proverb
William D. Latinette @ Latrobe, PA, USA w. H14 Turbo X 2... [email protected]


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:02 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:28 pm
Posts: 323
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Just fixed a soft spot with Git Rot this weekend. Git Rot is super easy to work with. The instructions by MBounds are perfect.

The only thing I'd add is make sure you take your time. It takes a while for the Get Rot to soak in. You need to monitor the holes and keep adding more as it spread out and air bubbles up. Push down around the soft area and make sure you get all the air out. It took about an hour in my case.

I used Formula 27 to fill the the little indentions. I had some mixed up since I was also re-doing a crappy bondo repair from the previous owner. F-27 is not the easiest stuff to work with. It's kind of gummy and difficult to spread neatly. I plan to add some gel coat next weekend and cover both spots.


Last edited by GD_NC on Sun Oct 09, 2011 1:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:29 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 10:33 am
Posts: 714
Location: Clinton, Mississippi
MBounds wrote:
Seriously, it's great that Hobie Cat has provided the basics. Look at it this way - does GM provide detailed instructions on how to fix rusted out areas on their 30 year old cars?

There's tons of further information out on the Internet if you look for it. This repair method is not unique to Hobie Cats.


Thanks, Matt B., for taking the time to post this reply. If GM did provide such instructions, I'm sure they wouldn't be posted on the internet for free.....more likely in a $300 repair manual. And they probably wouldn't host a free on-line forum with free advice from a factory rep for fixing their old models.

I for one want to make sure that Matt M. and the gang know that most of us really appreciate these forums and Hobie's other product support. Otherwise, they may decide it's not worth the effort and do away with them. Sorry for being so far off the original topic, but it bothers me to see folks criticizing Hobie, usually anonomously, on the forums that Hobie itself provides.

_________________
Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:29 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 9:52 am
Posts: 135
Location: Latrobe, PA, USA *** Show YOUR Location - Edit Profile ! ***
rattle 'n hum wrote:
Thanks, Matt B., for taking the time to post this reply. If GM did provide such instructions, I'm sure they wouldn't be posted on the internet for free.....more likely in a $300 repair manual. And they probably wouldn't host a free on-line forum with free advice from a factory rep for fixing their old models.

I for one want to make sure that Matt M. and the gang know that most of us really appreciate these forums and Hobie's other product support. Otherwise, they may decide it's not worth the effort and do away with them. Sorry for being so far off the original topic, but it bothers me to see folks criticizing Hobie, usually anonomously, on the forums that Hobie itself provides.
I too appreciate the expert clarification on this process- and posted so.
The original posting was one of needing basic information followed by request for more detail- it was in that spirit that I posted my questions.
dictionary wrote:
crit·i·cize verb /ˈkritəˌsīz/ 
Indicate the faults of (someone or something) in a disapproving way
I certainly do not disapprove of Hobie for providing this forum, but I think that improving the quality of information is in their interest and ours.
I have modified my signature to include more personal information to indicate that I stand behind my postings- not anonymously- and anyone is welcome to contact me via email or in person if they have a problem.

_________________
Raise your sail one foot, and you get ten feet of wind.
起你的一只帆,和你10英尺的。 -- Chinese Proverb
William D. Latinette @ Latrobe, PA, USA w. H14 Turbo X 2... [email protected]


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:34 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:50 am
Posts: 207
Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
here are some pics of the mess i made fixing mine. I ended up having a bunch of extra clean up but i was doing a full paint job anyway:
Image

Image

all done:
Image

I had no idea how to fix it before i started searching this forum. Big thanks to all!!!

_________________
'73 hobie 16 restored 2011
'00 Seaswirl fishin boat


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 5:18 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:28 pm
Posts: 3
[i][/iI have just refurbished an Older 16 and had the same issue. If you wish to give me a call I can talk you through the process. ]
Dave Long.
860-663-2280


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Jump to:  
© Hobie Cat Company. All rights reserved.
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group