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 Post subject: De-masting
PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 12:22 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2011 5:23 pm
Posts: 52
On Friday I had my first experience of a de-masting on my '81 hobie 16. The wind was blowing at 20-25 knots, fairly steady. We had just left the beach, tacked, and both on the wire when we heard a bang, and both get yanked backwards by the trap wire. I was yanked completely overboard while my crew managed to grab the rear crossbar and unhook. Fortunately we both were unhurt and only 300 yards from shore with windsurfers around us and a cell phone in a dry bag. A motorboat came out to rescue us and the boat within 5 minutes. What looks like happened is that the bolt which as far as I know was original, connecting the bridle wire either broke or came unscrewed and tore the gel coat and possibly very top layer of glass. Any ideas on how to repair the gelcoat/glass? I’m thinking just using some west systems to seal it up as it doesn’t look like the fiberglass was damaged.
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 Post subject: Re: De-masting
PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 5:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:20 pm
Posts: 502
Location: Clearwater, FL
The holes through my bows for the bow tangs are more cone shaped now so that I can see from above the edge of the holes outside of my bow tangs. The bottom of the holes are still close to the diameter of the bow tang's bolt.

I have replaced the hardware, but am worried that the bolts/locknuts may some day pull through and cause a de-masting.

Has anyone tried using JB Weld to fill the holes and then re-drill them? This worked well for re-drilling the holes in my lexan rudders to rake them under more.

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Tim
84 H16
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 Post subject: Re: De-masting
PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 6:27 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 5198
Location: Detroit, MI
You need to pop the gel coat flakes off, rough the area up slightly w/ 80 grit and fill with thickened epoxy (which all JB Weld is). I'd probably use WEST epoxy with 407 Fumed Silica just because I have it and the color is not as objectionable (JB Weld is black). Then re-drill the hole.

Unusual to have the bolt break. Usually it's the tang.


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 Post subject: Re: De-masting
PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 8:36 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2011 5:23 pm
Posts: 52
MBounds wrote:
You need to pop the gel coat flakes off, rough the area up slightly w/ 80 grit and fill with thickened epoxy (which all JB Weld is). I'd probably use WEST epoxy with 407 Fumed Silica just because I have it and the color is not as objectionable (JB Weld is black). Then re-drill the hole.

Unusual to have the bolt break. Usually it's the tang.

Its was the bolt that failed i have the tang still attached to the bridle wire. Whether the bolt came unscrewed or broke I don't know; however, I'm pretty sure it was the original bolt, as I didn't replace it when I got the boat. All the shrouds have been replaced should i replace the anchor's and pin's as well?


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 Post subject: Re: De-masting
PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 1:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 2:15 pm
Posts: 1199
Location: Oakland, CA
Rab1515 wrote:
All the shrouds have been replaced should i replace the anchor's and pin's as well?
Yes, replace the shroud anchor pins, and while you're at it replace the bow tangs. The anchor bars should be OK.


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 Post subject: Re: De-masting
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 9:07 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:26 pm
Posts: 576
Location: Harsens Island, Michigan
Wow, those little anchor pins are $27 each, and the anchor bars are another $20 each.

I supposed not getting whacked in the head by a falling mast while out in the middle of the lake is worth $100 to me...

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2017 Hobie 16 "Cayman" sails 114795
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