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 Post subject: 2007 Hobie 16 jib setup
PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 4:59 pm 
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Location: South Carolina
I have a 2007 Hobie 16, integrated traveler tracks and have a question regarding swivel feature of the jib sheet cleat.

See this thread - will take input on either forum.

http://www.thebeachcats.com/forums/viewtopic/topic/15415

Thanks
Ted


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 7:49 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
They don't swivel, but have a very wide cleating angle.

I've had all types of jib sheet arrangements (from 1973 - onward) and I like the non-swiveling ones the best. They don't get wrapped underneath the sheet like the swiveling ones can, and they move in the track much better due to the rollers.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 11:11 am 
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When I bought my 05 I thought I was going to dislike the setup without the swivel.

I don't. for all the reasons MBounds mentioned, on a H16 the non swiveling setup seems to work BETTER.

In a blow it is also easier for the crew to keep it uncleated. What we do quite a bit is put the sheet on the outside of the cleats and use that friction to make it easier to hold and trim uncleated.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 6:18 pm 
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Ted, what Matt and Ron say is correct but I recall having the same issue as yourself. I upgraded from a 80's H16 to a 2007 and found it alittle harder to cleat and un-cleat. Practice makes perfect but I added a stainless steel saddle to the top of the cam cleat. Works every time!

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 9:19 am 
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MBounds:
Can you describe a bit more what "wrapped underneath the sheet" means?

Matt:
Can you post pictures or describe the "stainless steel saddle to the top of the cam cleat"?

Thanks,
Ted


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 11:12 am 
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yelkenli wrote:
MBounds:
Can you describe a bit more what "wrapped underneath the sheet" means?

With no tension on the line, the cleat can swivel 360° so that there's a twist between the free part of the sheet (downstream of the cleat) and the purchase part of the line (upstream of the cleat). It invariably happens in heavier air, and isn't noticed until you've almost completed a tack - and the twisted sheet is now on the low side of the boat. Just yanking on the sheet will make it worse - you have to rotate the cleat with your hand to clear it.

yelkenli wrote:
Matt:
Can you post pictures or describe the "stainless steel saddle to the top of the cam cleat"?

Thanks,
Ted

He's talking about a fairlead:
Image


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2019 6:07 pm 
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Bringing this back from the dead slightly; I was having a good look at my jib cars and realized I never adjust them because they slide so poorly. I have the integrated tracks with the '96-'04 plastic sliding car and swivel cleat. I totally believe those who say the newer car is an improvement.

Rather than buy the whole assembly, can I mount my existing Harken 150 cleat and fairlead to the new plate? It would save me nearly $100. New car and plate $81, new assembly $128. Times two. The fairlead I have seems to have a 1" bolt pattern. Is that the same as the new system? Ronstan has one with 25mm spacing. The Ronstan and Harken cleats both have 38mm spacing as far as I can tell.

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