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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 6:52 pm 
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am i correct to assume that i need two seperate pieces of rope for the jib? the guy i bought the boat from was using one line. don't ask me how he sailed it.
also, if i need to buy a second line, what size and length should i get?

and, finally, someone here responded to my post about righting lines, saying they should be at least 3/8 and 14' long, but what does everyone prefer to use, or do they prefer the minimum size and length?

thanks again...

i've got the trailer registered, i'm getting a hitch put on my car tomorrow morning, and i'm getting the stuff i need for the boat (righting line, possibly a second jib sheet, and a shackle for one of the blocks in the mainsheet system) thursday or friday, hoping to get it in the water for the first time by the weekend...


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 7:06 pm 
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Location: West Maui
No. Use a single line for the jib sheets. Less confusion and ease of use for the crew.

What type of righting line system have you settled on? Different types will require different lengths.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 7:59 pm 
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Location: 315 N. Hwy 79 Panama City Beach, FL 32413 850-235-2281
we use a 1/2" hollow braid line for the righting line, 14 feet should be enough. The jib sheet can be 32 feet of 5/16" or 1/4", yes 1 is used I can get you a diagram if you need one. I would go ahead and get a H16 clevis pin set too, this was you have a back up, and also a few extra shackles. Good luck this weekend, don't forget the drain plugs!

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 8:54 pm 
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thanks to you both for your replies.

a diagram would be really helpful. also, what are the clevis pins you speak of? the only ones i know about are the ones in the mast stepping hinge. also, how many shackles should i get and of what size?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:54 pm 
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Location: Oshkosh, WI
Not sure what year your h16 is... but here is how it works on mine... if you have an older one... the cleats might be a little different

Image

and here is a diagram of how it works on my 82 h16.

Image

On the older 16's the jib cleats are on the traveler track all in one thing. The newer ones are split into 2.. a cleat and a traveler.

The diagram shows how it loops around and has just 2 ends... if you have the older style, just ignore the 'jib cleats' listed on the diagram.. The cleat is included in the traveler.


Last edited by Barren on Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:54 pm 
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Location: 315 N. Hwy 79 Panama City Beach, FL 32413 850-235-2281
You can look on page 19 of the h16 assembly manual http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive/support/pdfs/H16_Manual.pdf

Image



Do not pay attention to these part number, this from the harken website, major over kill on the jib! You dealer will have stuff that is more than adequate.

The clevis pin set includes a few pins for the shrouds, and extra mast step pin, on for the mainsheet block/traveler car attachment and ring dings. I think its like $6.20 off the top of my head...part number 1621...maybe...I'm going from memory.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:57 pm 
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Nice diagram Brad, way better than my 5 minute job. :)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:18 pm 
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Location: 315 N. Hwy 79 Panama City Beach, FL 32413 850-235-2281
yea I stole it from another site......what can I'm say i'm lazy!

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:18 pm 
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actually, both diagrams were extremely helpful. thanks to both of you--you saved me a lot of aggravation. and thanks, as well, for the picture. i wouldn't have known what to do with the ends of the rope without it.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 10:44 am 
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I have some pictures of the older jib setup if you don't have the same setup as me... let me know.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 10:55 am 
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no, i have an '87, and it looks exactly like that, but thank you. however...while you're in the picture-sharing mood, i wonder if you have some shots of mast when it's rigged? i don't know exactly how to use the three cleats and the one block at the bottom of the mast. i know the downhaul uses one of them, and the line you use to pull the sail up uses another, but i don't know about the third cleat or the block.


another question about rigging--when do you put up the sails if you're using a boat ramp? before or after it's in the water? if it's before, what do you do about the wind (ie: if you're backing it down the ramp into the wind, wouldn't that be quite a large problem?)? and if it's after, where do you stand to pull the main sail up?


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 Post subject: lines
PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:13 am 
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Location: NC
Is this the most common and/or reccomended way to set up the jib sheet. On my boat I have two lines for the jib sheet. I can adjust the traveler location with my sheets. Can this be done with only one line? It doesn't look that way. I don't have my boat in front of me right now but I know mine is different. Is this something I should look into changing. I can see how fewer lines would make things easier, especially solo.
And Cyrano, I would suggest putting the sails up on land. I don't know how it could be done on water. That would take some tricky manuvering. I don't know if this is a possibility for you or not but where I typically sail, a small lake, I back the boat in the water with sails down and push the boat to shore near the ramp to put the sails up. Just make sure your boat is pointed to the wind. I would be weary of having the sails up on the trailer in heavy winds.
James


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:25 am 
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yes the most common way is to have 1 jib sheet, as well as 1 main sheet, I see a lot of boats come in with a mainsheet line and a traveler line, use 1 line for it all. The jib sheet line is only to change the sail tension, we have 2 lines to change the traveler car position. The older boats like the one in the photo do not need any line to adjust, you do it by hand. The new style has a shockcord that connect the 2 cars pulling them inboard, there is a line that runs to a pulley on the corner casting and back to a cleat to adjust it outward.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:31 am 
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Location: 315 N. Hwy 79 Panama City Beach, FL 32413 850-235-2281
you have a cleat that is attached to the sail track on the back of the mast, this on is for downhaul line. There is going to be a cleat with a cheek block under it, this is for the jib halyard. The last cleat is for the Main halyard, make sure the halyard is hooked at the top, the cleat will not hold the pressure of the halyard, is just simply used to snug the halyard so its not flipping around.

http://www.sunjammers.com/item/view/28 click on the picture, the downhaul cleat is the one on the left, the one facing you is the jib halyard and the on the other side that you can't see is for the main halyard.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 1:22 pm 
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Thanks Brad,
I have an older boat, an 83', that has apparently been upgraded to use the bungee that pulls the cars inboard. I like it just fine, but is it an advantage or disadvantage to have the two jib sheets, or is it just a matter of preference? My mainsheet is just one continuous line.
I have also been thinking about replacing my sheets sometime before spring. I know I can find the thicknesses in the rules, but what kind of line is preffered? I'm pretty new to sailing and looking through cordage can be quite confusing.
James


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