Dolphin striker

On my hc 16 I have a dolphin striker that is splitted in two parts: the one connected to mast step is steel and the other one is a shorter aluminium tube , this with the hole for the rod . What is the story of this assembly? Does this assembly works well or is better to get a new one in one steel piece? (in this case is the size of new one correct for my old hobie)
Thanks

Can you post a pic?

What you're describing sounds like the system used on the H18 where there is an aluminum sleeve which holds the dolphin striker rod in position under the striker post. This system works fine on the 18.

I would say if your dolphin striker is otherwise structurally ok (no bends, cracks, damaged threads, etc.), then there's no reason to change anything.

sm

With an assembled cat i will follow your suggestion definetly, but in this case, i have anything disasembled because i'm doing a complete refitting , so may be be i can change this part also, in order to have a better efficency or strenght as well as a factory original looking, i'd lime to know way there is this difference betwen the rod holder of the two cats 16 and 18

How positive are you that you have a Hobie 16? Is it possible that you have a Hobie 18 and the previous owner just told you wrong? Do the cross bars sit up off the hulls on a frame (H16), or are they down flush with the hulls (H18)?

_________________
Steve
2017 Hobie 16 "Cayman" sails 114795
1985 & 1973? Hobie 14 "Sea & Ski"

No dubs it is a hc 16

Structurally, there is no difference between the two designs. I suspect the sleeve design may have been chosen because it is easier to machine an aluminum tube than it is a stainless steel rod. Also, the tube allows for easier alignment between the striker rod and post because you don't need to worry about the hole in the post being aligned with the rod.

As I said before, if it is working, I wouldn't bother changing any parts. It is just two ways of achieving the same thing and both methods work just fine.

sm