Rudder Cam Removal

I think that the rudder cams on my boat are the original ones. They are kind of beat up, still work, but I've been looking at replacing them. I see that they have a rivet/flared pin that holds them in the casting, and a new kit would come with "sister screws" that replace the rivet/flared pin. How do you remove the rivet/flared pin, do you drill it out, and if so what drill bit size is recommended?

On a side note, I have a stuck delrin screw as well but I've read that those can be drilled out with a 5/8 wood boring bit.

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Marty
1984 H16 Yellow Nationals Redline, "Yellow Fever"
Lake Martin, 'Bama.

Remove it just like you would an SS rivet. Use an oversized bit...large enough to cut off the flared head on one side. Make sure the bit is sharp...cutting oil helps, too. Go slow and make sure not to drill into the (soft) casting or enlarge the hole. Once the head is off, use an appropriately sized punch and hammer to drive the pin out the opposite side (don't smack the casting!).

I've done a few and none were difficult....just proceed carefully.

I'd also recommend that you buy an extra cam/sister screw kit for your spare parts box so you won't be stuck when something breaks or gets lost while your on your next beach vacation!

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16

I agree, it's basically the same process as drilling out a rivet. Just go slow, use a sharp bit, and stop as soon as you get through the head of the pin. Put a block of wood under the casting and then drive the pin out with a punch and hammer. You will want to loosen the cam tension screw if possible so that parts don't go flying when you drive out the pin. When you re-assemble, be sure to use Loctite on the sister screws to keep them from working loose.

Frozen nylon screws are a bit of a pain. I've drilled them out and then used a hacksaw blade (just blade, no handle) to cut grooves in the remaining plastic and then chip the pieces out of the casting with a small flat screwdriver. You may need to chase the threads in the casting afterwards. You can make a rudimentary thread chase from a coarse thread 3/4" hex bolt (available at Home Depot) by cutting a couple axial grooves in the end of the bolt using a flat file. I've done this before and it works well for clearing the remaining bits out of the threads.

sm

Sounds fairly easy, thanks for the help guys!!!

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Marty
1984 H16 Yellow Nationals Redline, "Yellow Fever"
Lake Martin, 'Bama.

I reground a drill bit, and cut the head off on a drill press. With a drill press, you have complete control of going slow, and being able to stop when you need to.

I melted out those plastic screws with a propane torch on a windy day. The fumes are very toxic.

The 3/4" bolt/tap, exactly as srm described, has been in use since 1983, and I don't remember ever having to sharpen the "cutting teeth". Back when I did it all the time, I figured I'd buy a real tap when that bolt wore out, but it never did.

When attempting to drill out the original pin (unless using a drill press as suggested) you run the chance of wallering (sp?) out the hole
Then the sister screws will be loose

Chuck up the casting in a drill press
Use a hack saw to cut through the pin, by inserting in gap between casting and cam
You may have to wiggle to get it loose from one side
Use a center punch to knock out the opposite side
(credit Wally Myers)

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1984 H16 "Mister Rogers"
1984 H14 "Sundays"
2000 H20 "Jet"
Sheet In, Max Out