Hairline cracks in hulls

Ok, I'm shopping for an H16 and I found a used one that seems to be reasonably priced (less than $1K) and it has all of the pieces, plus a few more. It is a 1986.

Anyway, as a newbie I would appreciate some insight on what I found.

First, both hulls seems to have small, hairline size cracks on the top as shown in the picture. Is this a problem or just something related to the non-slip surface on the top?

Hairline cracks

Second, is there anything that you can see in this picture that should make me concerned about the rudders?

Rudders

Finally, the serial number plate has been removed but the serial number has been scratched into each hull. Is this anything I should be concerned about?

Thanks for your help!

Michael

The hairline cracks are the result of running a strap over the hulls to hold the boat down to the trailer. Many years of overtightening will do that. It's mostly cosmetic.

Hobies don't have serial number plates - the number is generally etched on to the transom (since 1973) or stamped on the pylon (prior to 1973).

A guide to intepretation is here: http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=1155

The rudders look OK, but those aren't from an '86. In 1983, Hobie introduced rake adjustable castings and those aren't them. I'd check the serial number for the real year.

The tiller arm is a little bent down, but again, it's mostly cosmetic.

I have those same cracks, Matt Miller referred to them as "something I can't remember" "caulking" or like that, but referred them as only cosmetic and I agree. He said if you clean them up, you may be able to thin down some gel coat and fill in. I never did, as a Hobie sailor, over time you learn to spend time on things that are important, and those cracks are not one of them.

I think the biggest problem with those rudders is, they are not being used to steer the boat!!!

_________________
Sail Like you Have a Pair
Bluish gray 73 - 83 H16
Super Nice Yellow 84 H18

I have an '83 boat but I am not sure if it has the rake adjustable castings. Does anyone have a pic or can explain what I should be looking for.
-Thanks

_________________
"Breach hull all die"
'83 H16
'90 Hobie One 12

Thanks for everyone's reply. I agree that the biggest problem is that the rudders aren't being used!

FYI, I did look at the serial number and the last two digits are 86. You can kind of see the serial number in this blowup of the rudders picture.

Serial Number

Don't know why the rudders are not right for the model year, but so long as they work and don't need to be replaced I'm not worried!

Anything else critical that I should check?

Thanks.

Michael

Sails - stiching, tears, batton pockets, head, clew and tack plates

standing rigging - frayed ends/strands -- be very careful when
you run the shrouds, halyards and trap lines, one frayed strand can hurt a bunch

Running rigging, what shape are the sheets in? jib car cleats

soft spots on the hulls

_________________
Sail Like you Have a Pair
Bluish gray 73 - 83 H16
Super Nice Yellow 84 H18

The old upper castings have a rivet through them that the rudder cam latches onto when the rudder is locked down. You can spot them from a distance because they have a hole in the side where the rivet is.

The new upper castings have a plate that the rudder cam latches on to. You can spot them at a distance because there is no hole on the side and the head of a bolt visible on top where the plate is adjusted.

Another dead giveaway are bent tiller arms. Old castings - bent. New castings - straight.

Thanks for the information. I guess I should double check the year of my boat. What are the advantages to the newer system?

_________________
"Breach hull all die"
'83 H16
'90 Hobie One 12

You don't have to re-drill your rudders to adjust the rudder rake.