Eliminating hull vent tubes in front pylons?

another one.... I would like to completely seal with 5200 the corner castings to pylon joint to avoid salt water intrusion.
This was the whole reason for a very time consuming repair (welding aum sleves inside the pylons) as the salt had eaten away at my pylons.

If I completely seal with 5200 the joint and around bolts the hulls wont vent/breathe and expanding air inside could crack the hulls.

Any other way to vent the hulls thats not thru the pylons???

Other than some other leak spot, no other vent is in the hulls. You could just drill a very small hole somewhere I suppose.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Ok then where under the inside/inboard, rail/lip of the hulls could I drill this hole..?

In what specific section under the inside rail does a H16 get less water contact/spray etc?

thanks!!!

I would suggest keeping the vent tubes as they are the most protected spot for the vents. Anywhere else will almost guarantee you will get water in your hulls

_________________
Nick

Current Boat
In the market
Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO

I would keep them if I could seal around the corner casting 100% and still get the hull to vent thru the vent tube and pylons...but sealing the casting will also seal the venting effect so....I basicaly need to relocate where the hulls vents thru...

somewhere thats not in the pylons

what if I drill a 3/16" hole on top of each front corner casting and replace the vent tube with a longer piece of tubing (fridge water dispenser line sold at home depot) that comes out the top?

I could seal the area around the tubing where it comes out thru the casting top with black 5200..............and have the tubbing curve downward next to the pylon held with a tiewrap/cable tie to eliminate the posibility of water getting in thru the tubing



?????????????????

Wasn't the vent tube through the foam plug in the pylon way back when?

_________________

yes but that foam is also a problem....it collects salt in between the plug and pylon which eats away at the alum walls constantly.........

That will be a problem regardless of whether there's a vent tube through the foam or not.

_________________

I think your idea of routing the tube up and over is good. Maybe point it down the track slot in the back of the pylon?

We currently seal posts to the top, so water is not trapped. We routed vent tubes through the top of the casting and into the forward tramp track at one event years ago. Likely best to trim the tube just above the top of the post. I don't think the post touches the inside top of the casting.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

That's exactly what I did many years ago. Works fine. I think I filed a groove at the top to accept the longer tube.

The reason I did that with a longer vent tube was that I epoxy-shimmed the castings to the hull stanchions.

Digressive explanation:

My old '83 came with brass shims....how foolish is that? I didn't know this at first, but noticed them poking out from underneath the castings.

Of course, electrolytic action was going to destroy the aluminum.

So on land with the boat upside down I epoxied (marine-tex) the stanchions into the corner castings. I squared & leveled the boat before it set-up.

Before everyone starts screaming, the epoxy was slathered onto the inside of the casting. The stanchions I buttered with silicone grease, and wrapped with polyethylene. This allowed for a close fit, but still removeable (the last time I tried, anyway).

The boat is still very tight.

Jon

_________________
Sail Fast, Take Chances.