jib traveler controls

I have a '94 which did not come with remote jib traveler controls. I have the integrated traveler tracks but my corner castings are the original style and do not have the integrated sheaves. I am planning on just attaching a cheek block on top rather than replacing the castings.

I have already purchased the newer "2004 16 worlds" traveler cars. I would also like to have as close as possible the same jib traveler controls as the newer 16's. I have not seen these parts listed in the hobie catalog. It is not clear if the systems on page 24 would be the one to use. Any difference with the Murray's systems?

I have been trying to find pictures of a new hobie 16 setup but have been unsuccessful. Any comments on this would be appreciated.

Post a picture of your current system and I'll try to help you out.

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The 94 was the changeover year and probably has the shallow integrated track in the crossbars. Try them in the tracks and if they don't fit you can shave some material off the bottom until they do.

The original cars had a tendancy to crack where they smacked into the stop. I actually got a replacment rear crossbar because the travelers tended to fail too (if you worked them under load).

I mounted the little harken cam cleats right on the corner casting pointed at the crew position. I used a tap to make threads because the casting is pretty thick for sheet metal screws.

I seem to remember that boat was really fast. I glued the pylons with the bows tied together and the sterns wedged apart and that really seemed to make it go. Tramp squared up of course. All of my boats after have had the Euro castings with much less pylon slop.

cheers
Bill

Here are pictures of my current "setup" (or lack thereof).





Here are pictures of the old and new traveler cars.





And here are some pictures of new hobie 16s found on recent posts.





A few things I have noticed:
The "latest" setup does not have a bungee return. I am assuming that by simply sheeting in you will pull the traveler inward and therefore this is not really needed.

The entire jib setup is now composed of ronstan parts and not harken. It almost appears as if the cam cleat is mounted flat to the crossbar without any special wedge like the Murray's system. Does anyone know how this is mounted?

Finally, someone mentioned that there may be a difference in the size of the integrated tracs. I do not know if it is clear in the pictures but the size of the brass rollers are very close to the size of the original traveler "slot" (I do not have a better word for it). Before I try and shove the new traveler car in (I tried gently already) and risk breaking a $120 item, does anyone know for sure if it fits? Local dealer does not know. There is really nothing in the hobie catalog about this.

BTW I am only being picky about this as I would like it to be "class legal" if my kids ever decide to race. Although it is a '94 the previous owners had basically just left the thing in their yard. There is almost no wear on the bottoms. I think I have sailed it more in the one year I have had it than in its first 12 years. Aside from faded gelcoat I think it is nearly a "new" boat.

Hopefully I can put this together before November 10th. I am trying to make it to a short sprint in Melbourne Florida (Hiram's Haul)

Thanks

Hey JN, As far as fit, the '94 and some '95's had the shallower tracks. To my knowledge there is no rhyme or reason as to how to tell other than stuff that car in there and see. As Bill said, you can shave some material off of the bottom of the car. The way I do it is get a piece of 100 grit sand paper and place it on a flat, stable surface and sand away. Go easy!! You don't want to take off too much, just enough so that it doesn't rub on the track.


You don't need a 'kit' just go up to your Hobie dealer and tell him you want some small Ronstan cleats, a couple of cheek blocks ( I rivet them, but like Bill said tap-N-die is cool) some shock cord and some 1/4 inch low stretch line (11'per side...actually get 12' and cut if you want).
I use pretty much all Ronstan gear these days with exception to the main blocks. It seems to me that it lasts longer.



There should be a piece of shock cord between the cars.

Hope that helps!

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You can just barely see the shockcord in the 1st picture of the worlds boats.

There is shock cord between the cars on the picture of my boat (the one that's really a shot of the base of the mast).

It runs straight from car-to-car, therefore below the curvature of the crossbar.

Thanks for the information. I couldn't see the shock cord but it would make sense.

Questions about the shockcord. Does it pass through a fairlead mounted on the front of the crossbar or is that not necessary? I could probably take one off the old traveler car to use. What length and diameter would you use. The only extra hole on the newer traveler car is quite small. I have a hard enough time fitting the 5/16 jib sheet through the bigger hole (hence the shackle in the picture).

Second is about the sanding. On closer inspection some of the brass rollers protrude below the solid portion of the traveler and some do not. I figure on shaving just enough so that all would protrude ever so slightly. Has anyone done this before for the boats with the early integrated tracs? Just wanted to know before I make $240 of parts non-returnable!

Thanks again

Not necessary. The shock cord is 1/4" about 4' long - cut to length. On my old cars, the shock cord had a small loop in the end that slipped over the metal tab where the jib sheet dead-ended. Once the jib sheet was tied on, the shock cord stayed on.

Use 1/4" jib sheet. It's what comes on the new boats.

I measured your photograph of the traveller cars. The slide on your old cars is 32 pixels wide. The rollers on the new ones are 34 pixels wide. Too close to call.

The only way to tell if they work is to try to put them in. If they won't go in at all, then they're too big. Don't try to make them fit.

A cheaper alternative to what you are doing is to just remove the pin from the old cars so they slide freely.

I was hoping to use the newer cars not just because they are "new" but because I don't feel the old ones work well. The jib sheet often does not release well. I wanted to remove the second fairlead (that covers the cam) to allow the sheet to release easier but with the swivel car you would not be control the orientation well remotely. The new cars are fixed and would not have this problem. I also like the idea of the initial fairlead oriented directly forward should allow the jib sheet to release easier. I solo quite frequently and simply release the sheet early in the tack. Personally i find the tack much quicker if the jib does not backwind.

I think I maybe able to get the car in without modification. I noticed it took a fair amount of force to remove the original. I will "practice" putting the old one on a few times (adding a lot of teflon lube) to get used to the required force then try with the new one. The bearings on the new one are slightly bigger but the old one is slightly loose once it is in the slot. I'll know by tommorow.

After looking at the track carefully with the old car in place, there is a fair amount of play which should easily accommodate the new cars. I am assuming that the fit of the new cars should be more snug so the bearings actually turn. I do not see where I would have to sand the new car down.

My problem has been inserting the cars. Looking back at the old cars, the edges are beveled allowing for the car to be inserted at an angle. The new cars do not have this.



Secondly I find when trying to insert the car I hit the mast step not allowing me to rotate the car completely.



I am assuming that the insertion site on the newer crossbars is different than mine.



I can only think of three possible solutions.

1. Pull the cross bar out of the corner castings and slide the car in from the outside in (assuming the track goes all the way to the end).

2. Buy the new cross bar (at just under $250 it isn't much more than the traveler cars cost!).

3. Remove the forward lip of the track(whited out below).



Can MBounds or anyone else post a picture of the slot in the newer crossbars?

Although it may not look too pretty, I do not feel this would weaken the bar any. I wouldn't mind too much the cost of a new crossbar but would sure hate to be stranded in the ocean or damage other parts if it broke. I think I can get past the mast step blockage by taking the traveler car apart and put it back together once inserted into the track.

Pictures and comments are greatly appreciated.

Sorry - my boat is hoisted to the ceiling in the garage for the winter (with 3 other Hobies stored underneath it), so getting to the front crossbar isn't that easy.

On my '98, when I retrofitted the new cars (w/ slides, not with wheels), I had to take them apart to get them in. I didn't have to cut the track, though.

I would consider cutting the track to be a last resort. Still, it's easier (and much less time consuming / expensive) than taking the castings off the front crossbar.

would it be easier to remove the mast step rather than disassembling the frame? Regardless you'll have to drill out some rivets right?

I do not feel the mast step is the major blockage for the new cars. I could disassemble the car and just get the bearings in the track to bypass this.

The idea of removing the crossbar from the corner castings is that if the track continues all the way to the end then the new car could simply slide straight in instead of having to be angled into the track.

At this point until I can compare with the newer crossbar I am going to continue with the old cars for now. If someone is able to post a picture great. Otherwise I will see if any "local" dealers (nearest one is about 90 minutes away) have a new 16 to look at.

Thanks for the input so far.

Well, I reached up the morning and felt the front crossbar of my new 16 that's hanging from the ceiling . . .

The track opening is cut exactly like your photo - the aft side is cut away, the forward side is not. I didn't have a measuring tape on me, but I would guess the track is cut back about 4" - just about what it looks like in your photo.

My suggestion would be to take the thing apart and work on getting the lower unit into the track.