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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2019 1:56 pm 
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Just picked up my second Outback, a 2019. Took it out on a freshwater shakedown cruise. It has so many great improvements that it's crazy. Got into two to three foot swells and breakers. Water over the bow is expected and a total non-issue. No leaks. No water inside the hull. It was equal to my 2015 Outback but it performed so much better in terms of steering and acceleration. I felt far more in control of the yak. Kudos to Hobie engineering for an incredible design.
But I have an issue I hope someone can help me with. I launched and landed at a boat ramp...concrete surface. I stowed the rudder before landing. I raised the bow as little as possible to pull it out of the water. Even though there is a screwed on wear piece on the keel just in front of the rudder, it doesn't protect the rudder from scraping the concrete. Why add a wear plate that doesn't prevent damage? The shape of the rudder in the stowed position is odd. It sticks down to expose the leading edge.
As an engineer, here are my possible suggestions to anyone having this problem. 1)Buy two extra rudder blades. You will need them. 2) Apply some sort of tape that can protect the leading edge of the rudder. Suggestions on what type of tape would be appreciated. 3) Don't move your kayak without someone there to help you. 4) Hobie either redesign the wear piece on the keel to be deeper or redesign the shape of the rudder blade so that it doesn't drag or a combination of both. 5) Redesign the clip-on stern device that keeps the rudder off the ground so that it stays in place when the yak is dragged from the bow handle. It rolls out of the wY as soon as the yak is moved, exposing the rudder to damage.
Maybe dragging the rudder will automatically change the shape so that it stops dragging.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2019 8:43 am 
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The plastic piece they supply you with to protect rudder really doesn't work well at all. As soon as you lift front of kayak, it wants to move forward and pops put plastic piece rendering it useless. I saw rudders for 26 dollars so I ordered an extra.

I saw another thread where a guy uses a strap tied around the base of rudder and plastic piece, this helps a little. It still moves but doesnt fall flat slamming the rudder on the ground.

Kind of frustrating for a kayak we are paying top dollar for. My rudder was also warped when I bought it but it hasnt caused me any issues yet.

Ive thought about making a sheet metal sleeve or something to add more protection.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2019 12:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2019 4:03 pm
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I'm picking up a 2019 Outback this weekend. I have a full shop at home, including metal working tools like a mill. I'll take a look and see what I can come up with. Having looked at them, I'm thinking milling a channel the width of the rudder in some aluminum that could be pinned or bolted on could do the trick. I'll have to measure and see how much room there is so it wouldn't interfere with retracting the rudder. Some type of protective wear edge on the rudder shouldn't be too tough. I'm even wondering if something like UHMW could work well. I've used it from everything from the bottom of airplane skis to the bottom of jet sleds and similar applications.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2019 1:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:48 am
Posts: 266
Location: Portland, OR
I understand what you are saying Checkmate46.

If you are going to lift the bow at all your choices are to either use a cart (I use a scupper cart which keeps the back of the kayak and the rudder protected) or snap on the loading block to protect the rudder. I step out when I am in a foot or two of water and then reach under my kayak and stick my cart in while it is floating. I think that is easiest and makes loading and unloading into the bed of my pickup truck really easy. I am usually launching from a boat ramp and so I just roll out of the water up the ramp to the parking lot to where I leave my truck parked (in the nice level lot). I can then pick up the bow of the kayak and set it on my tailgate with plenty of clearance on the rudder.

If you use the snap on loading block then you need to be careful as Kpd145 states. If you pull forward at all the block will simply rotate and the kayak will land on the rudder. I use the block when I am putting my kayak in the garage. With the bow of the kayak in my bed and the block snapped into place the weight of the kayak pushes back on the block to help it stay in place.

I hope this helps.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 7:00 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2018 3:07 pm
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As others have said, the snap-on block must be used with care. I find PDX’s approach works well for me too. I use the scupper cart and insert it while the boat is in the water. I use the block only when I can keep back pressure on it. Of course, I hit the ground with the rudder a few times before learning that. It’s seems pretty sturdy though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2019 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:48 am
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Location: Portland, OR
This is just a thought, I have not tried this yet and maybe never will.

If you attached a strap to the bottom of the block so that when it was pulled forward it wold lock the block in place. You could pull that tight and either pass it through the scuppers or through the drive hole and tie it off (anchor it). If you had little to no stretch in the rope or strap that should keep the block from rolling. A strap that went around the block, through the drive hole (or a scupper hole) and back around to the block should work as well.

Perhaps the strap just gets in the way and the above is a stupid idea. Just a thought. Personally, I am careful and can use the block in a way that keeps it locked in place so I am OK with the block as it is.

_________________
Fish tremble when they hear my name :)

A ship in harbor is safe -- but that is not what ships are built for.
--John A. Shedd, Salt from My Attic, 1928


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2019 4:10 pm 
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I’ve only had mine for a little while but I’ve found it to be fine as long as I use common sense. Don’t pull forward on the kayak when it’s on the block.

When lifting the front end up onto my side loader I place the kayak at an angle so that after I lift the nose I then pivot onto the side loader bar. Same thing in reverse. No reason to pull the boat forward.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 2:29 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:48 am
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Location: Portland, OR
Second Skin wrote:
I’ve only had mine for a little while but I’ve found it to be fine as long as I use common sense. Don’t pull forward on the kayak when it’s on the block.

When lifting the front end up onto my side loader I place the kayak at an angle so that after I lift the nose I then pivot onto the side loader bar. Same thing in reverse. No reason to pull the boat forward.


Exactly how I do it as well (except on and off the tailgate of my truck). I guess if someone had to store their Outback in a narrow space that it might be trickier.

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Fish tremble when they hear my name :)

A ship in harbor is safe -- but that is not what ships are built for.
--John A. Shedd, Salt from My Attic, 1928


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