Mainsheet block question

Are these two blocks designed to work together? Previous owner said they came with the boat when she purchased it new in '87.

The issue I'm having is this: it sheets in very efficiently, but has a little "drag" when sheeting out and does not flow as freely as my old seaway factory blocks.

The middle wheel is unlocked, and it appears that the drag comes from the line crossing up where the second feed comes down on the far side.

Thr setup looks similar to the new H14 Mainsheet from hobie Europe with two exceptions: new boom block has three wheels instead of two, and it appears that the Mainsheet on the new system starts on the lower block with a stopper knot in the fair lead.

Is anyone else using this setup? Should I just go ahead and order the new boom block and toss this one? I'll be using an old set of seaway blocks from a previous boat until I figure it out.

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85 Hobie 14 "mello yello"

Is the clicker on? Try turning the little switch on the right side (in your picture) of the triple block. See if that gets rid of the drag when you sheet out.

No - both the upper and lower blocks have beckets (the "true" becket on the upper and the eyestrap on the lower). The lower looks like an early version of the Harken 194, which has been the standard lower mainsheet block for the Hobie 16/17 for some time. It's meant to have a 6:1 purchase when paired with a triple block on the boom.

In the '80s, the standard mainsheet purchase for the 14 was 5:1 and the blocks were both fiddle configuration - with the blocks stacked in line instead of beside each other. The becket was on the lower block.



No - almost everyone is using the same setup as what's on the 16 - a 6:1 (which is class legal).


Yes. The standard now is a Harken 344 (29 mm triple). It looks ridiculously small, but it works well and will allow you to have maximum mast rake. You'll want to use a 5/16" mainsheet with it.

This doesn't happen very often... (Mbounds is the man...) So I jump all over it every chance I get.


but i believe the upper block should be 40mm..


Or did they really go that small with the upper? I went to 5/16 Salsa from 7/16 or whatever the next size up is this year.. I love that stuff!

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www.thehobiewayoflife.com

What is the part number for the 40mm? Guessing it's the triple carbo block?

The 153 is listed on Hobie dealer sites as a "H14/H16" part as part of the low profile system, looks big for a 14 though.

MBounds, you're right, the 344 does look small!

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85 Hobie 14 "mello yello"

I bought new main sheet blocks for my 14T last summer and reverted back to a 5:1 fiddle block system with 5/16 line. With the smaller main on the 14 I just didn't think I needed all that purchase, especially when you consider that in East Tennessee, I rarely see heavy air. But the advantage of the 5:1 system is that the line runs through the blocks much easier and you can trim the sail quicker when you don't have as much line to pull or let out through the blocks. I've rigged my Turbo as a "Mini-16" without a roller furler and I feel like it likes a tight rig as opposed to a loose rig on a standard H14. With the tight rig, going block to block isn't a possibility so the fiddle blocks aren't a hindrance from that perspective. Depending on your rig and conditions, a 5:1 system with smaller diameter line might be a better option.

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Mark Van Doren
H16 Seabreeze #112205 (Richard Petty Signature Edition)
H14T Fantasia #47787
San Juan 28

I use the same triple, carbo, 40mm upper, 2.25" lower 6:1 that I use on my 16.

I untie the sheet end from the lower becket, feed it through the center of the upper and dead end it with a figure 8.

Voila, a 5:1

also been using the same salsa sheets for six years now

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1984 H16 "Mister Rogers"
1984 H14 "Sundays"
2000 H20 "Jet"
Sheet In, Max Out

I use a 5:1 just like the photo. Assuming the top block is 2.25 it runs freely.
When you reeve the blocks, the top block should be turned roughly 90 degrees relative to the bottom block. No lines should cross.
I'm pretty much at the limits of mast rake unless I change the mast base. Having said all that, if I was to go 6:1, I would just get the stock H16 top block. I like factory.