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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 5:47 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
Went to install my new harken traveler cam, noticed that the front screw on my traveler cam screw is stripped. Both back screws are threaded and move in and out just fine.

Looks like there is a small nut below the housing, it turns with the screw.

How am I going to get that screw out of there?

Is the front screw hole threaded like the 2 aft screws, or is it only held in by the nut?

Should I loosen the tramp to do this? (Looks like I will have to unless there's a trick from some of you vets).

I'm super bummed, I would like to get some practice in with my new blocks and cam before the next regatta.

See pics:
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 5:50 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 5:52 pm 
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Also, front screw is super soft and falls apart a little more with every turn.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 6:58 pm 
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Are you using a small open end or box wrench to turn the nut? (Sorry if this is a stupid question) I think it's 5/16"
You'll then need the proper phillips (IDR if that'd be Size 0 or 1) screwdriver. Beg, steal or borrow one that fits tight and put downward pressure on the screw and turn the hex nut with the wrench.

The rearward two screws do not have nuts, they thread through the pad into the crossbar extrusion.

If all else fails, you could remove the rear tramp piece, or drill out the rivet through the pad into the rear crossbar. You may have to back out the two rear screws first to remove the rear tramp piece, as they may be so long that they interfere with tramp within the crossbar.

One other thing...measure the outside diameter of the swivel base plate on the Harken cleat, and compare to stock. IIRC it's larger than the stock Hobie (at least mine was).
I used a narrow, sharp wood chisel to knock off the boss of the pad, so the swivel base laid flush on the pad. The Harken holes line up with the original pad.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 7:06 pm 
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I'll grab a set of hex wrenches and give it a shot.

I'm not sure the correct size Philips will do anything, the head is literally too soft to grip.

I thought about drilling a sideways slot in the screw head with a dreme lot get a solid grip with a flathead screwdriver while I unscrew the nut from the bottom.

Ugh.

Had a good showing at a division 6 regatta over the weekend, used my old fiddle blocks with the larger diameter line.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 8:49 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
The two screws at the back of the mount are really wood screws that self-tap into the aluminum crossbar.

The forward "screw" is a machine screw held on with the nut, which usually has some Loc-Tite on it.

Needle-nose pliers are helpful in replacing it; the Dremel tool idea is a good one if the head is stripped.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 7:38 pm 
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Finished the upgrade, 2 notes:

This particular boat used a metric machine screw and nut (9mm) for the "front" screw.

Factory screw heads sit perfectly flush with the upgraded part.

The plastic base will separate from the new harken cam, but it's going to take a steady pull and something sharp. I used a chisel as suggested by the previous poster, it worked.

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