UnevenThr3e` wrote:
About 70% of the deck in front of the pylon on the right hull is soft and cracks slightly when pressure is added, to me this sounds like I'll have to do more than the usual resin/epoxy injection that is suggested?
The left hull is much more firm an does not crak at all though there does still seem to be a lot of soft area in the front as well in the rear. Though both hulls are very firm between the pylons and against the pylons.
There is also some damage on the lower inside of the left hull that I know I will have to grind out and reglass the area to correct.
Sorry, but those hulls are done. 70% of the deck really means that the boat is beyond reasonably saving. If the boat had some sentimental value, I'd understand trying to save it, but why spend ~$5-10k trying to resurrect a boat when you can get one in almost new condition for that price? Chances are the deck is almost completely separated from the hull, and if the deck is that far gone, the sides of the hulls can't be far behind. This is a boat that was abused and neglected. Water was almost definitely left in the hulls, which only hastens the formation of soft spots. The decks are very important, structurally. If the deck separates from the hull or buckles, or if the sides are soft and they buckle, the whole boat will break apart. If you try to inject epoxy into such a large area, it'll "balloon" and fill with quarts and quarts of epoxy, probably crack the inner layer of glass and fill the bottom of the boat. You can't just re-glass it because you need the two layers of glass with a foam core for strength.
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I was curious is anyone has made a mold of the hulls and created there own? I know it'd cost quiet a lot more but it seems like a logical alternative considering the market for wholesome hulls.. Or what is the option for reglassing the entire hull? Once again I know it'd take a lot of effort and cost a good bit but I'm curious if anyone has attempted it?
The boat was originally built in two pieces - the hull and the deck. Each had it's own mold. I'm sure that the decks are soft all the way to the lip. The only way to repair that, really, is to build a new deck. You'd need a mold of the deck (which would probably cost close to $1k to build and take weeks to finish). You'd have to get the mold perfect, with no air pockets or voids, with enough strength to hold it's shape. Then you'd have to spray several layers of gel coat into the mold, followed by a few layers of glass, followed by foam, followed by another few layers of glass. Then you'd have to re-bond the deck to the hull, and that's IF the hull is still good. That much fiberglass and resin will probably cost you another $1k. Need to do the hull? that's another $3-4k for the mold and the hull. The two hulls are not identical, so if you need to make another deck/hull, that's even more. Replacement hulls from Hobie are probably $5-6k. Hobie has a dedicated factory, already built molds and experienced workers. You're not going to be able to build a hull for less than they can.
I'm sure if you wanted to, you could spend $10k and re-build the boat almost as good as new, and it'd take you months and months of work. The question is why? You can get a "nice day sailer" for probably $2k used, or a brand new boat for $12k, and save yourself a lot of time and headache in the process.
For $200, you may have some decent parts (mast and trampoline frame, maybe some blocks, pins and rings, rudder system). Hang onto those and find a boat in better shape. Trust me, even a $1,500 boat will have it's share of problem to fix and repairs to make in order to get it back into good shape, and you can still have fun fixing up an old boat, learn a lot and take pride in the boat. You're always bound to find problems that need to be repaired or improved as you get more familiar with the boat. Trust me, that's what I did. (Just don't expect it to be cheap!

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However, if you're dead set on building new hulls and saving an old boat, might I suggest an 18?
