Comp-Tip re-installation

I have questions regarding my Comp-Tip mast. The only reference I have is the instructions for retrofit of an existing mast.

For the H16, instructions state cut mast at 18'-3 3/8". This H16 mast measures, from the bottom of the mast, not including the base, 18'-8 3/4". This leaves about 5" of aluminum above the mast tang. Is this the right length? The luff track of the Comp-Tip itself measures 7'-4 5/16".

The mast has been countersunk to accept a #12 flat head phillips screw on each side a couple of inches down from the top of the aluminum, I'm assuming they're not machine screws (or maybe they are and that's whay the Tip is loose). Is this a factory mast?

I will take it apart, reseal top and bottom (with noodle, thanks Jamie ), rivet on a new base and epoxy in the Comp-Tip. Looking for a "double check" before I cement it all together.

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hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297

You've got one of the original Comptip masts, John.

The original Comptips were shorter than the ones produced now. They were made to go on without removing the mast tang. The current ones require the removal of the mast tang and are secured with the tang rivets, whereas the old ones were secured with the counter-sunk screws.

You can what I'm talking about in this photo from the HOTLINE article that introduced the Comptip 20 years ago:


If you're re-installing the original Comptip, no worries. Just glue it in.

If you're installing a new Comptip, you'll need to trim the mast down, remove the tang and install it per the instructions.

Thank you Matt.

The halyard line is worse for wear. It has a 12" lead of cable which transitions to 1/4" or 3/16" line. I can think of no good reason for keeping the length of S/S cable. Can I attach a new halyard line directly to the shackle?

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hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297

Every 18 I have sailed on has had all rope halyard for the main. Because the sail "hooks" to the top of the mast, there is no need to worry about halyard stretch, as there is no tension on the main halyard when sailing.

Collin

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PHRF is measure in seconds, skill is measured in minutes

But the 16 is different - you need the wire part, since the metal "slug" that is right at the wire/rope transition hooks into the halyard catch at the top of the mast.

The halyard cleats on the mast are not meant to take the loads imposed by the mainsheet/downhaul. They're for halyard stowage only. They'll rip right off the mast (seen it happen more than once).

The original, all-aluminum mast had an all-wire halyard, but that provides an electrical path to the lower part of the mast, thus the part wire / part rope halyard on the Comptip mast.

I'd just bite the bullet and buy a new halyard from Hobie.

The halyard hook on an 18 and the wire swage to two finger prong setup on a 16 do VERY important tasks. Especially on the CompTip masts with plastic luff tracks. The hooks actually hold the head of the sail into the luff track.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Do you know...can I use the non-comp wire halyard as the halyard on the comp tip mast? Is the distance from the locking bead to shackle the same?

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hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297

Ok, before I epoxy the CompTip back on the mast.

What is the "best" way to check for leaks?

Is there foam flotation in the CompTip itself?

_________________
hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297