Gudgeon Problems

The lower gudgeon on my H16 broke in half leaving 2 stainless srews broken off inside the stern. I've ordered the new one piece gudgeon as a fix but how do I get those broken screws out? Do the holes for the one piece gudgeon use the same holes? Or do I need to redrill and tap new holes? Any help would be appreciated.

Chopper

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Go Spiders
'86 H16

I believe 6 out of the 8 lined up on mine (its been a few weeks). The bottom most set didn't line up.

Getting those broken screws out was awful. I knew the advice I was getting was sound, I just couldn't make it work. That SS is no joke, I have dozens of ruined bits to prove it.

Doc-
Did you drill into the stainless screw and then use an "easy out" to back the screw out? What type and size drill bit did you use? Thanks for your help.

Chopper

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Go Spiders
'86 H16

Yep, that is exactly what I did...or tried to do.

When I first ran into the issue, I used a 1" hole saw to open up the situation and see what I was dealing with. I tried without luck to use a combo of un-seizing products and vice-grips to get the screws out. When that attempt failed, I headed to the autoparts store and picked up the smallest easy-out they had, if I recall correctly it was 5/32", but I could be incorrect about that, regardless it was tiny. I also swung by the home improvement store and picked up a bunch of bits.

I used a fine pointed nail punch to get nice center dimple and then went at it with the drill. I have a high RPM 1/2" Dewalt and tried several methods of drilling. Dry, wet, oiled and never managed to get a hole big enough for the easy-out to work effectively. I got pissed and filled the holes I had created.

I ordered the one piece gudgeons and fixed them to the hulls using the top holes. If I recall correctly I was able to also sink the screws in the next two sets working down. The 4th set (where my screws were broken) had to be drilled. I used a 3/16" bit and retapped when I was done.

Knowing what I know now, I would have gone this route right off the bat, it ended up costing less, and the one piece gudgeons look great and feel nice and sturdy. I would imagine your broken screws at at the bottom like mine. I'd also guess your hulls have had a little watter in them long enough to cause this seizing. Seems to be the status quo.

Repair Update: drilling into the broken off stainless screws proved to be next to impossible. We broke several bits, an "easy out" and a tap and still they wouldn't budge. We ended up not using the holes with the broken off screws and drilling/tapping new holes in the gudgeon plate. Per instructions we did have to elongate the holes in the new one piece gudgeons to get the holes to line up. Once the rudders were installed we found that they would not turn completely because the rudder casting was hitting the gudgeon mounting screws. This required some grinding of the casting to provide clearance. Overall, a frustrating experience. I wish that there was a more user friendly solution.
I haven't sailed it yet but hopefully the repair is sound and will last. The boat is 20 years old. Another major repair may mean it's time for a newer boat. That might not be so bad. Thanks.

Chopper

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Go Spiders
'86 H16

Yeah man, I had the same experience, and funny enough I came to the same decision. Next repair costing more then a couple bones, and a few hours will get me in the showroom.

I found this item/article on drilling stailess steel, it inclides some contradictory info, be carefull.
http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-stainless-alum.html

Basicly,
Carbide bits
Slow speed
Cutting oil
Pressure

I drill stainless at work quite alot, and when the material and / or bit over heat it almost becomes impossible to drill into.

But IMHO, slow speed and cutting oil ar key to accomplishing the task.

Hope this helps. Also the Machiner's Handbook gives alot of info. Available at the library.

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Mike Hensel
'86 Hobie 18, '93 Hobie 14, '80 Hobie 14(restso in progress)
Wind in your sails, water in your shoes, great day!