There isn't much to look at but I can take photos easily enough.
There are two eyestraps mounted under the bench seats. I made them permanent after determining the best sheeting point for the spinnaker. The eyestraps hold bullet blocks--While experimenting I just tied around the bench seats. At first, I put them all the way aft to the rear crossbar.
On the mast I use a ronstan high strength swivel only because I had one and it works perfectly to give small separation between the forestay and the spin luff. The swivel holds the halyard block.
Guying is done by the crossbar itself. Just tie some guide line between the slides holding the front tramp to the front bar, the guy is routed under the bar and slides easily-the guy is held up by the guide lines (so you aren't dragging your guys in the water). At first, I used a couple bullet blocks tied to the front cross bar. I used those until I found the correct spot for the guy.
Depending on the size of the spinnaker AND it's construction, that will determine the best sheet and guy points for you. My spinnaker is made for both running and reaching (there's a video on YouTube showing me make it).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdedS1z ... 0r&index=3 The spinnaker snuffer is made from a Rubbermaid dishpan that has had the bottom cut off. I stitched a tube of cloth to that so it extends back to the middle crossbar. I attach the dishpan to the front crossbar.
Any Hobie with a front crossbeam can do this. The faster the boat is, though, the more you will need to guy from closer to the middle -my spin works best about 18" from the middle on either side. If your boat goes 15 or more upwind, get a sprit and an asymmetric instead.