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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 8:59 am 
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I've bought a used set of hulls. There are 4 small bullet holes in one of the hulls. I'm sure I can prevent them from leaking. I'm looking for suggestions. They are about the size of a pellet gun pellet or a 22. I've heard some type of gorilla glue could be used to fill the holes. Or maybe a combo of sikaflex or 5200 filled in the hole and then put a screw in there. Thanks for your ideas.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 5:28 pm 
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Bullet holes..... :shock: Only in America.......... :D

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 8:11 pm 
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I have never done any polyethylene repair, but this looks very interesting. It is West Systems G-Flex epoxy with help of flame treatment applied to the plastic.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/gflex/GluingplasticGflex.pdf

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 3:37 am 
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How about a sealed pop rivet?

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It may not be the prettiest repair, but you won't have to worry about trying to bond to polyethylene. Put a dab of silicone caulk around it before installing to make it water tight.

sm


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 6:41 am 
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I agree...mechanical fastener with epoxy or sealant will do the trick.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 7:27 am 
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jackB wrote:
I have never done any polyethylene repair, but this looks very interesting. It is West Systems G-Flex epoxy with help of flame treatment applied to the plastic.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/gflex/GluingplasticGflex.pdf


I was looking at this product for another repair project...for an aluminum boat. Yes, it does look promising!!!!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 7:35 pm 
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RobDek wrote:
jackB wrote:
I have never done any polyethylene repair, but this looks very interesting. It is West Systems G-Flex epoxy with help of flame treatment applied to the plastic.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/gflex/GluingplasticGflex.pdf


I was looking at this product for another repair project...for an aluminum boat. Yes, it does look promising!!!!


This would be my choice. Please let us know how well it works. The pop rivet idea is interesting but I haven't seen a pop rivet with that large of a diameter (and there is a hole in the center). Some hobie dealers are experienced in plastic welding...you might go that route, as well.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 5:41 am 
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Use closed-end sealing rivets for this kind of repair. Up to 1/4" diameter.

http://www.rivet.company/closed_end_pop_rivet.htm


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 7:50 am 
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HDPE is difficult to get anything to bond well with it. Having repaired a few kayaks I would recommend getting some HDPE welding rods in the diameter that would fit inside the holes and use a small propane torch and a $15 heat gun from harbor freight. Use the heat gun to warm the hull around the hole until it is hot to the touch, having the torch setting lit close by, quickly heat up the welding rod with the torch just short of total melt down, insert into hole and if needed use a spoon to push the melting rod into hole until almost flush with the outside of the hull and hit lightly with the torch or the heat gun smoothing out the patch with the spoon.

You can get different diameter rods from here: http://www.grainger.com/category/thermoplastic-welding-rods/thermoplastic-welding/welding/ecatalog/N-na7#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fthermoplastic-welding-rods%2Fthermoplastic-welding%2Fwelding%2Fecatalog%2FN-na7Z1z13ly3

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 8:35 am 
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Sikaflex might work the way you describe working with it, it takes forever to cure, tho, which might cause a hole on the top of the repair since it will flow down--Sikaflex doesn't stick to HDPE, tho. I'd try Lexel instead, myself since it cures faster. Lexel does stick to most things that I've tried it on, but haven't tried a HDPE repair yet-- but their website shows a picture of a plastic kayak. With holes this small, you can try this repair first cheaply (Lexel is about the same cost as silicone and you can get a very small tube) and inspect after each outing to see how it is holding up.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 6:49 am 
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Location: Minneapolis (Apple Valley), Minnesota
You can patch the hulls with HDEP on the cheap. Milk cartons are made of HDEP and can be used for patch vs buying a package of welding rods. Preferably if the hulls are not mounted yet and you can turn the one on it's side carefully heating the area around the hull slowly with a propane tourch until it is hot to the touch have a bundle of slivers of the milk carton ready and heat those, insert into the hole and continue to heat (if you cut the slivers long enough you won't burn your fingers and after inserting trim to about 1/4" above surface) contiinue applying heat until the slivers melt and level out with spoon. It can be done with the hulls in the vertical position but it is a little more difficult getting a nice patch with milk carton slivers when working on a vertical surface.

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2001 H18 w/SX wings & spinnaker #16740 (purchased new)
1989 H18 w/SX wings #14565 (purchased new, sold 2000)
Would buy another if Hobie would build it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 8:12 am 
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Location: Benicia, CA
NeubaurRL wrote:
You can patch the hulls with HDEP on the cheap. Milk cartons are made of HDEP and can be used for patch vs buying a package of welding rods. Preferably if the hulls are not mounted yet and you can turn the one on it's side carefully heating the area around the hull slowly with a propane tourch until it is hot to the touch have a bundle of slivers of the milk carton ready and heat those, insert into the hole and continue to heat (if you cut the slivers long enough you won't burn your fingers and after inserting trim to about 1/4" above surface) contiinue applying heat until the slivers melt and level out with spoon. It can be done with the hulls in the vertical position but it is a little more difficult getting a nice patch with milk carton slivers when working on a vertical surface.


Good tip, thanks.

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