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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 7:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 7:49 pm
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I just purchased a new Hobie wave and while moving it I droped one of the hulls and put a nasty nick in the side of the hull. I was wondering if I should worry about the the nick or try and repair it somhow with epoxy or something. The nick is not very deep but I'm not sure how thick the side of the hulls are. Any ideas?


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 Post subject: Nick
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2006 9:30 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
That is a shame, but don't worry. The hull material is very thick. The outer skin is between 1/8 to 1/4 thick and there is an inner material that is 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. Not likely an issue other than cosmetics.

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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2006 5:52 pm 
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Thanks for the quick reply. I understand that the dent is probably cosmetic, but I am curious. Is there a way to patch blems and scratches on the wave. I used to fix such things on my old H16 with gel coat repair. Is there anything you can use on the Wave.

Thanks again


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 Post subject: Fix
PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 11:52 am 
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The Wave has an outer skin of cross-linked polyethylene. The material is a melted plastic that has expended its chemical cross-linking ability. That means it can no longer be melted and further bond together. There is a slim chance that you can melt it further, but that would cause more of a cosmetic issue. Best scenario is to trim off the burr and buff to smooth if possible.

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Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 4:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 2:02 pm
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Location: SJ, PUERTO RICO
I have a H16 but also a JY15 which I have sailed for the past 5-6 years...they are roto molded plastic as the Wave is...
I repaired the bow with west system epoxy/sillica filler and cloth....Its super strong, imagine I have the forestay plate bolted to the repair I made, and after years of hard sailing a pull on the rig its still solidly bonded to the plastic material of the hull.
I painted over with two part etc to finish it off.

It may be an option if it looks that bad....besides the dent in your Wave is cosmetic not structural.

Just to give proof that epoxy resin will bond to plastic molded hulls!


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 Post subject: JY15
PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 4:57 pm 
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The JY boats are not rotomolded polyethylene. They use a plastic sheet formed and backed by other materials. Not sure what plastic, but it is not cross-linked polyethylene.

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Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


Last edited by mmiller on Fri Aug 04, 2006 10:38 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 7:51 pm 
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Location: SJ, PUERTO RICO
Ok sorry dont know what plastic formula they used...I do know they are made by vacum heating plastic into shape...anyways thats the repair I did to the bow (structural).

What is the rotomolded technique?


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 Post subject: Rotomolding
PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 10:51 am 
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Rotomolding is a process that starts with hollow cast-aluminum molds. Several buckets of powdered plastic (Cross Link Polyethylene in this case) is dumped into the molds. They are clamped shut and loaded into a huge oven. The oven is a large box supported on a center pivot that tips the box left and right as the mold is rotated inside the box. They call it Rock and Roll... Once the plastic melts and coats the inside of the mold, the oven is opened and a second batch of plastic is dropped into the mold. That is a linear polyethylene that creates a thick foamy inner layer for stiffness.

Image

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:11 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 10:11 am
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Location: PO box 1513 St John VI 00831
I have numerous gouges in the side of the hull of my boat due to grounding on a rocky island.

I have searched in the plastic welding forums and such for info on polyethylene. It seems this is a thermoplastic - able to be melted. And as long as you get matching plastic rods for your plastic welder (29.99 from Harbor Freight Tools) you should be able to weld this material.

I found polyethylene welding rods at urethane supply.com

Questions that still remain:

I can't find anything about "cross linked" and as Matt said this may be a special process that prevents further welding/bonding because it has expended it's cross linking abilities?

Is this "high density polyethylene" (CL HDPE) and does it matter?

Will the cosmetic repair look worse than the original gouges?

I have just ordered the welder and will post my results and before and after pics for whoever might be interested.

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Sail Safaris tours, lessons and rentals
St John, US Virgin Islands
http://www.sailsafaris.net
toll free(866)820-6906


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 2:08 am 
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Location: Rockingham, Western Australia
Han, I would be very interested to see how you go and to hear from Matt on Hobies opinion. I used to plastic weld a kayak I used in white water rapids which routinely needed repairs. I intend taking my Bravo into the many coves and islands around our coastline and before I go barging in it would be nice to know what the repair effort will be if I go in too hard.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:06 am 
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You can not weld to Cross Linked polyethylene (when properly cured). Some molded CL material may have some molecules left to weld to, but not likely.

Best to buff out the gouges or just leave alone.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 10:11 am
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Location: PO box 1513 St John VI 00831
I spoke with the dealer down here. He has several plastic welders and has been welding plastic boats for years. He has tried to weld his Hobie Waves and according to him (and Matt at Hobie - see above) it just doesn't work, even with the correct welder, material, etc.

The good news is these boats are practically indestructible. I wouldn't worry about rocky coves at all. We ran ours up on a nasty, rocky coast with breaking waves and 5 people on board.

They sat on the boat for safety while the waves pummeled it into the rocks - the result wasn't pretty but the boat sailed home and will sail again. There are scratches all over the hulls but no punctures!

One bow was actually bent outward. We tapped an air compressor valve into the drain plug and pressurized the hull while heating the stress point of the bend and it returned to close to normal (the whole hull is a little bit fatter now).

The other hull will get a power sander, a buffer, heat gun and some big stickers.

Anyone wanna buy a Getaway? :D

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Capt. Han
Sail Safaris tours, lessons and rentals
St John, US Virgin Islands
http://www.sailsafaris.net
toll free(866)820-6906


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 8:52 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:40 am
Posts: 18
Location: North Dakota
In my experience I respectfully have to differ with the post above.
I am far from an experienced welder, but when I bought my used Hobie Wave 3 years ago from Hi Tempo in Minneapolis, it had gash in the nose of the hull that you could see through, about 1 - 1 1/2 inches front to back.

The boys at Hi Tempo welded that thing right up, filled it right in, and I've been sailing it ever since, in some pretty rough weather.

It doesn't take on any more water than the other hull.

So, in my experience, with my boat, with goood Minnesota welders, it can be and is being done.
Best wishes to all, and may you never have to weld anything.
- Paul B.


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