How to ginpole a 21SE? How to make one?

So the 21SC has a hple in the mast for a ginpole. The 21SE does not.

So what are people doing here? I can invent something, but would really rather build off proven experience.

Mostly, I need to know how to connect at mast and how to secure trap lines. Guessing the 80 inch length is correct for the SE as well as SC?

Chuck
408

It's just a whole, with a stainless steel reinforcing plate riveted around it., drill it using a step drill bit, perhaps rivet some reinforcing stainless around.

It's called a compression plate. PN 30680001 about a 1/2" hole and 4 rivets. There is a seal that goes between the mast and the stainless steel plate. Watch the video on 21sc set up. Miller has some video showing the pole in action.

But my mast doesn't have that hole, so I'm left with "clipping" on a bent piece of aluminum plate to the base of the mast - the "clip" being lined with 1/4" rubber liner to keep in place and keep from scratching mast. Can't see myself drilling into the mast on the fat side, like the SC has - just kind of reluctant to add another hole.

Do other 21 SE's have a mast-stepping hole at the base of the mast like the SC's? Picked up some generic Dyneema rope to hoist it with.

I built the gin pole out of 1&7/8 Aluminum pipe, that's commonly used for hand railing. Surprisingly, it's 6061 T-6, clear anodized and was about $30 for 8 feet from American Fence and Supply. Great supply of matching fittings for the tube as well. Not cheap, but not terribly expensive either.

I'll upload some pictures later. I'm wondering how others are attaching

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ChuckC
H21SE- 408

My mast stepper 3 has a piece that fits into the track and holds the mast sideways (Getaway masts are raised and lowered on their side), and it's held in place with a bungee wrapped around it.
Years ago, I made a gin pole for my H-17 with an 8' long 2x4 stud, cut to the side profile of the mast with rubber glued to the bottom, and tied it around my mast. The H-17 mast is also stepped on it's side. I never had a problem with it slipping. I used the traps lines for vertical stabilization tied to ropes that connected to the underbar of the front crossbar and then connected to the gin pole. I don't remember how I tied them to hold them out by the hulls, maybe a line around the front wing strut. It worked well, and cost me about $5 to build.

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Icebirds" - 1974 Skeeter iceboat
Too many canoes and kayaks

Thanks - however you cannot step the 21's mast from the side due to the construction of the base; it's got a notch in it for the ball to fit into, so it cannot rotate 90 degrees.

At least that's how it looks to me. The rigging I get - no problem there; it's just the connection to the mast; I think I have a solution, but would like to validate before I threaten my house with the mast in the back yard...

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ChuckC
H21SE- 408

My mast raising/lowering system is on the trailer. I have a steel A-frame that pivots on the front crossbar of the trailer. The pointy end of the A rests against the front mast stand. Roll the mast back (rear mast carrier has a roller), put on the mast step, clip trap wires to now raised A-frame pigtail, crank it up with a winch on the mast stand that pulls the A-frame back down, and attach forestay. There is enough mechanical advantage with the winch that there is no need to re-tension the shrouds. A child could crank it up.

To lower, reverse procedure, but I stand on the tramp as a safety for the person reversing the winch.

Hey Tom,

so you don't use the trap wires to steady the mast, side to side? Guess its a 2 person affair, with one steadying it, until you can attach shrouds?

I like the method that Miller uses in his SC 21 video because of the stability, however i wonder if bungy cord would be strong enough and where would you tie it off? I do like the idea of a permanent gin pole attached to the trailer. less to fuss with. Seen some pics of your trailer, just still mulling over what to do with nine.

I built a standard type gin pole, but want to have the system self-stabilize. Not afraid to fabricate/weld.

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ChuckC
H21SE- 408

Yes, I'm on the tramp steadying as it goes up. I expect a couple of the trap wires could be tied off the keep the mast from moving side to side, but I've never needed to do that.

The shrouds are never disconnected, and don't even need re-tensioning since the whole system has enough power from the winch to attach the forestay.

Now that idea, I like... Guessing the shrouds don't provide enough side-to-side stability, until up pretty far? As you can tell, this one hasn't gone up yet.

I think I might change my plans now, because that would simplify and speed things up.

Thanks!

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ChuckC
H21SE- 408

I've never noticed how much the shrouds would allow the mast to move around. I've never had to do much "helping" while on the tramp with it going up, or down, but haven't really paid close attention to that. I mostly feel like I'm there for a safety.

Coming down, I just make sure it lands on the roller (urethane boat trailer bow roller) on the rear mast stand. Then I can disconnect the mast base, and roll the mast forward onto the front mast stand.