I set out to build a set of 'haka' benches to let me hike out when sailing in good wind, and to free up the rear cargo area to enable the little fella to come out sailing/fishing.
Thanks stringy, I pretty much copied your basic idea.
Parts list:
Bunnings -
DIY screening 'rear fix' rails (19mm) x 4 ~ $33 each (ouch) -
here.Protector 'End Rail' x 3 - ~$10 each
here.Aluminium Bar, 1m x 3mm.
here.Heat shrink, 20mm. (no running link)
4mm x 9.2mm blind rivets (aluminium) (more than 100). I also used a few 3.2mm I had lying around.
1 x second hand aluminium security door $30 (the mesh, 7mm, fills the gap between the rungs and rail perfectly.
4x Quick Fist clamps
2x 4packs of closed cell EVA foam mats (I chose the mats with holes)
4mm shock cord.
S/S countersunk bolts (for quick fists)
Process:
I cut the 'End Rail' into 333mm lengths, giving 6 per 2m length. These are the rungs. First go, I used 6 per frame (located where there were pre-drilled holes in the rails, no need to measure and mark)
Once these were sitting into the rails, got a measure for the security mesh width. Leave a couple of mm gap, or they can scratch the rails.
Dismantled the door, found a profile that was perfect for hiding the messy ends of the mesh.
I got the grinder out and ran it down the length of the security door to give the two panels (with a thin section left). Much file work later there no sharp edges left (all up there were about 30+ cuts each length!)
I also cut the profile to length, and recessed a bit off each end so it sat nicely on the rails.
With it all sitting together, I started to drill and rivet:
1. Rungs to Rails
2. Mesh profiles to rails (at ends)
3. Mesh to rungs
Test fitted to get mount points for quick fist clamps and front hooks.
One hole for each quick fist:
I made the hooks (for the front aka) by cutting the aluminium to length, bending around the aka.
I then superglued some foam to the inside of the hook, cut the heat shrink to length, wiggled it on and heat-gunned it down tight. I then drilled out enough foam for the rivets to work and used 3x 4mm each side to hold it in place.
(Using the hooks lets you move the haka in/out as the akas are not parallel).
After another test fit it was found that the rung spacing in the seating area (back half) was too wide, and the mesh flexed excessively. I ended up cutting another 2m of end rail for 6 rungs, and using these in between the back three gaps. This made a much stronger structure.
I then cut the foam mats to size, and laced some shock cord around the outside. This gave enough comfort for sitting on.
I attached a scotty mount to the side near the front of one of them, to use as my DIY camera mount
All up weight is about 5.7kg each with mounting hardware/foam etc.
I use the quick fists as is to hold the rear of the hakas, and occy straps tight on the front as backup. The mesh gives ample points to used occy straps to hold my esky, storage box etc. I also place an occy strap across the back of the haka, and tuck my inactive rods under it lying along the haka.
(The esky is out of the way of the sail in almost all conditions.)
I also make a cheap tiller extension handle - 3mm U shackle, some shock cord and an extendable aluminium handle from a brush (cur off some plastic, and drilled a 7mm hole for the shock cord which was knotted tightly after passing through the shackle. Also added a SS bolt to stop the plastic separating from the handle).
(I drilled a 3.5mm hole in my old-style steering handle for the shackle)
This lets me steer from anywhere, you can see it in the pic two above.
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I've been very happy with mine. After a year of use the powder coat aly still looks as good as it did when new. Works great in the marine environment and the only maintenance has been a quick rinse after use.
