Best Bilge Pump?

I like the idea of an access port in the bottom of one of the cup holders - so pumping can be done with hatches closed.

What with a paddle, anchor, throw cushion and so-forth the deck area seems like it doesn't need any more clutter so I am thinking to stow the pump below deck. ...... Seems like I am going to open the cockpit hatch anyhow to see why the boat has become so sluggish... so I might as well retrieve the bilge pump from there once I confirm I've got excessive water in there - before closing it back up again.

Seems like I'm looking for the maximum volume per stroke commensurate with stow-ability via the cockpit hatch.

Or am I ??

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2015 AI in "Dune" - "The Grey Pig"
2017 Trailex 450 Trailer
Pre-September 2015 cradles
(anybody want to buy a slightly-used AI SpinKit?)
eMail: [email protected]

I've got an NRS floating kayak bilge pump. It's only single stroke, but the volume that it spits out is quite impressive. It fits through the 8" hatches. Bonus, it's wrapped in foam so it floats if dropped overboard. It also fits (with a bit of squeezing) into the mast receiver to allow me to pump that out at the end of a sail.

https://www.amazon.com/NRS-Kayak-Bilge-Pump-Yellow/dp/B00TXR2FAE/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473449903&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=nrs+floating+bilge+pump

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2015 Hobie Tandem Island Hibiscus
"Third Normal Form"

• Trampolines
• Hobie cover
• Davis Spar Fly
• Kayakbob's Sprayskirts
• Spine Board Hakas

I have an atwood that i got at walmart. Works good
FE

(this post needs tb deleted)

_________________
2015 AI in "Dune" - "The Grey Pig"
2017 Trailex 450 Trailer
Pre-September 2015 cradles
(anybody want to buy a slightly-used AI SpinKit?)
eMail: [email protected]

Just pulled the trigger on this bad boy:
https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-11595-2- ... Bilge+Pump

_________________
2015 AI in "Dune" - "The Grey Pig"
2017 Trailex 450 Trailer
Pre-September 2015 cradles
(anybody want to buy a slightly-used AI SpinKit?)
eMail: [email protected]

Yep that's the one I bought, it rests nicely in the v of the mast brace system. It pumps on both up and down stroke, and I can move a lot of water quickly.
FE

This is a current set up on my TI. Using a reed sensor to detect was in the hull. I use a 800 gpg rule magic and incorporatedo a manual water tight switch outside to manually activate it with out opening any hatches. Just my 2 cents.

https://youtu.be/h5NDSu1R2YA

Hi carsautotech,

On my last outing (3rd time on a new 2017 TI) I was fighting winds in rough sea for couple of hours before realizing my back seat is in the water. I looked back and was shocked to see by whole rear was sunken. No one prepare me to that. I was away from shore and thought I am going to loose the boat. I managed to get out of the situation and landed on a rocky shore destroying both drives (which were folded up) in my panic to save the new TI. THe TI is back at my dealer waiting for Hobie's rep to check it out. Since then, reading lots of posts here I understand this is a common issue with the Islands. I am looking into rigging a solution. Few questions for you since I see you already got this thought out:

* I am planning to install the pump in the rear. On the TI, I seat in the back and last time the back sunk while the front got up and out of the water. I see you put your pump in the front. Should I consider that location?

* I read lots of people complaining about a pump failure. It doesn't weigh that much. I am considering installing 2 (front and back) with independent float switch for each and manual toggle switch for each. I hear those float switch fail all the time. Would you think it's an overkill?

* I currently have a small Hobie battery for my GPS/sonar. I am considering adding another small one if I will go with the electric pump set up.

* What did you use as an outlet for water? Is it a check valve? How do you prevent water to go back into the haul if the waves cover your exit hose? I was thinking of making few loops with the exit hole for safe measure. Your thoughts?

* Last, sometimes after completing an elaborated rigging project, one can realize he/she should have opt to keeping it simple. I can go with a port and an external manual bilge pump. Keep it light and simple. What are your thoughts on this one?

I'll appreciate any input in this matter.
Thank you!

Hi Hezi ,sorry you had a bad experience so soon into the game with your 2017 TI. I placed the my pump in the front due to easy access if I needed to work on it on the water. If the TI is half way under water I can still open the front hatch and try and gettting the water with my manual bilge pump if my electric bilge pump fails. But that is only my last resort. My pump set up runs on 2 switches. The one inside is triggered by 2 inches of water and place in line with a manual bilge pump switch that is run through hobie access port for the FF wires port. Also when I'm sailing I can jump on the front of the Ti and shift the water to the front to completely pump all the water out and not interrupt my sailing coarse. The battery is placed in a waterproof plano box with a 12 deer feeder battery. I use aviator watertight connectors male and female that twist lock. This are similar to what Lowrance uses on there FF units. They seems to be pretty effective and cause very little corrosion problems. I a thru hull fitting and no check valve. I had a check valve at some point , but made it difficult for the pump to start pump because of the 4 to 5 inches of water accumulated in the discharge tube. I often use and small boat plug. I think the inner diameter is 1/2 OD.

It is ridiculous that a Hobie Island leaks so much that people feel the need to install an electric pump. Go to your dealer and file a warranty claim or simply point out that the boat is leaking way, way too much water. Find out what the problem is! Get Hobie to fix it.

Keith

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2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

"Less is more" Anon

Mine is a 2016 and I've found multiple point of entry. Rudder lines, hardware where the main line runs thru it, I ran a water test on my trailer so I could tilt the TI backward and full all the back end up pass the rudder lines.

I agree Keith. While there are plenty of stories of SMALL amounts of water entering the hull (through rudder lines, drips caused when opening hatches, mismatched seals on front hatches), it is NOT common for a hull so be filled with water to the point where it becomes partially submerged.

I drive my TI into rough water on a regular basis, and have not optimised the seals of the front hatch, which is often under water... Absolute worst case for me has been no more than 2 gallons inside the hull. I have the fitting in the bottom of my drink holder so I can use Hobie's manual bilge pump, but have NEVER needed to use it. Fixing the abnormal leakage problem is far preferable to just fitting an electric or manual bilge pump

That major leak problem is definitely a warranty claim issue, and is NOT normal.

_________________
Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker

Thank you all for the replies.

Hi carsautotech, so your discharged tube is a through haul and it's just opened? If your boat is covered with waves, wouldn't this discharge tube going to introduce water back to the haul? This is why I was asking about a check valve, or maybe to make 2-3 loops in the discharge hose and create an air lock?
I am not sure how it is going works before getting the parts and testing it. I am planning long excursions in the future and I want to be ready for anything. I think I will go with one pump in the back, and a port for manual bilge pump. There was no way for me to open any hatch while I was on the water.

I did take it back to my dealer (120 miles trip) since I busted the new reverse drives and replacement parts are not available yet. Hobie rep already checked the boat and informed my dealer there's nothing wrong with it. It was 2 hours in chops and waves. That was enough for me to take many gallons of water. When we pulled the TI up on the rocks, the drives were folded flat against the haul. We were dealing with fatigue, and some measure of panic since we were afraid the damn thing will sink. We just pulled it up with the last of the energy we managed to summon. It was very heavy with the water in it. In the process of dragging it, we damaged the drives. When I opened the rear round hatch, gallons of water rushed out. I am using Hobie's battery setup (battery inside a plastic bracket that "seats" on the round hatch lip), and let me tell you, this battery was was completely submerged in sea water.

At this point the dealer filed a warranty claim, hoping Hobie will send the parts in good faith. If no, I am in for several hundreds bucks. The damage is extensive. Honestly, I read a lot prior to the boat arrival, and read the whole manual. Nothing prepared me for that. I am sure a better solution could be engineered. Anyway, I wrote a little post telling my story, but after reading and researching on the forums, I answered most of my questions and never bothered posting it. This was an attempt to repeat my 2nd time on the water 30 miles trip from the Hackensack River to the Hudson River. You can see the route by following the link:

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?hl=e ... 00003&z=11

I never completed the route the last time and landed on Governors Island. My buddy took some footage on a GoPro and I edited it into a 10 minute video. here's a link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wkmj5okDuLA&t=0s

That's is a tragic story Hezi. Whilst some water inevitably enters in rougher conditions it should only be in pints at best, not gallons. Something is definitely amiss.
Did the Hobie rep offer an explanation? Just what did he do to determine there was nothing wrong?
I agree with Keith and Tony.

I have my discharge port plug with a 1/2 inch ID expand plug that I bought a Academy for $5. When I'm ready to discharge water I just remove it, and turn the manual switch on or let the auto switch which is built in the pump do its job. When done, just put it back on. I have owned 5 islands and all have leaked. I've come to a conclusion that I will be now treating further Islands as a boats and not as a kayak. All boats have bilge pumps. To me it's a peace of mind when I'm offshore fishing 10 miles into the Gulf of Mexico. I remember when I did a beach launch in 2 to 3 foot breakers. I had taken a newbie with me which was riding in the back. When we were in 3 feet of water I told him to drop in his mirage drive in . Not knowing till I was 3 miles offshore. He had wedged the mirage drive with the handle of the rudder line and punctured a pinky size hole. So before I knew it, the back person is sitting in water. What kept me from sinking it that day was my electric bilge pump that ran non stop. I jumped out and started running my hands through the bottom of the hull to check for cracks or holes. After 15 minutes of searching for the hole, sinking in 50 feet of water and the pump doing its job, I finally find it. Took the mirage drives out and started running my fingers through the mirage drive hole and there is was. I could fit my entire pink size fat finger inside. Luckly I had a bobber that was made out of foam and wedged a piece of it for to contour of the hole. When I finally got back onto the front seat of the TI, I waited for the pump to shut off and see if that was the only hole. After 5 minutes more the sound of relief, it shuts off and the Ti is now back to its normal floating level. That day we continued our excursion 5 miles offshore and caught 5 King Fish, 4 snapper and 2 Jack Cravels. Now with an extra added weight of 150 pound of fish, gear and a 3.5 hp out motor, we headed back in and made a successful beach landing. The person I was with was very grateful that the pump really made a difference. We went from a soon to be rescue mission to a successful day of fishing. Just my 2 cents, its cheaper to add a pump than to get a bill in the mail from the coast guard.