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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 1:15 pm 
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Jan 27, 2009, post by Chekika:

One item that still seems lost on people here is galvanic corrosion. I have mentioned it on a couple threads on this forum, but it needs to be said again. If everything is made out of a single metal, say aluminum, it is not a problem. But, if you have 2 metals like steel and aluminum in contact, and these metals are in contact with salt water, then you have what is known as a galvanic cell. With a galvanic cell, the sacrificial metal (aluminum in the case of steel/aluminum cell) corrodes very rapidly. I don't know the situation with a boom, but I do know that the AI has numerous steel/aluminum connections. This is asking for trouble in a saltwater environment.

Hobie has been very generous with me and my corrosion problem--they deserve their reputation for outstanding support. And, I am very thankful for Hobie's hosting this forum for users to exchange information. The information on this forum is invaluable. I and others have expressed this opinion frequently. So, I am bringing up this potential corrosion problem with constructive intentions.

My use is somewhat unique. I only do multi-day kayak camping trips [with my AI.] Most of the trips have been outlined on my thread about "expedition" kayaking: http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=7276&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15
Of course, on these multi-day trips I cannot wash my equipment at the end of each day. Further, I only sail in saltwater, so corrosion problems are going to be amplified 10-20 times compared to fresh water.

Now back to the "hole." This unpainted aluminum surface which, through conduction, is in contact with steel (the steel hinge pin and screws) will cause undue corrosion when used in saltwater. I am going to try to prevent that corrosion by (1) attaching zinc anodes to the xbars, and (2) sealing the 3/8" hole with marine silicone sealer. I also intend to seal the 4 holes of the jam cleats and the 2 holes of the paddle cozy with the silicone sealer.

Hopefully, a year from now I will be relatively corrosion free. We will see.

Keith


Kayaking Bob!

I intended to do a report, but I’ve been busy and have let it go…until you put me on the spot.

Fact, there is minimal corrosion on the akas and xbars which I received from Hobie over 13 months ago. I treated this equipment no differently than I had my original (which corroded extensively in less than 1 yr) except, when the boat is assembled, there are 2 zinc anodes attached to each aka/Xbar assembly.

Here are a few pictures of my akas today:

Image

These flat areas were extensively corroded on my original akas.
Image

Image

Aka shafts.

Image

In the above pictures there is no obvious corrosion. However, on closer inspection there are some corrosions spots developing after about 14 months.

Image

Image

There are maybe 4 spots showing some beginning corrosion on the akas and none on the Xbars. Frankly, 2 yrs ago, when I first noticed the corrosion on my original akas/Xbars, if it had been this small, I probably would have ignored it. That was not the case. It was extensive and severe at that time.

Because I have limited data, I can’t say whether minimal corrosion now is due to the new set of aka/Xbars with a better coating OR if the minimal corrosion is due to having the zinc anodes attached.


There is still a design problem which encourages corrosion at the site of the paddle cozy.
Image

Lifting up the cozy exposes serious corrosion:
Image

If remove a screw from the end of the cozy and expose the area, the corrosion is more obvious.
Image

The other end of the cozy:
Image

This again is just a poor design. Hobie has a stainless steel screw in contact w/ the aluminum aka shaft, and the knit fiber paddle cozy retains water. That combination steel-aluminum-water sets up a galvanic cell causing corrosion. Or (and) there is what is known as crevice corrosion. Either effect will cause major corrosion in this area underneath the paddle cozy.

My recommendation to Hobie is re-design the paddle cozy to (1) eliminate corrosion, and (2) make the paddle cozy more secure so people do not lose their paddle. (Yes, we could do things to reduce the likelihood of losing a paddle, but Hobie could simply design a better paddle cozy. Why not?)

Keith

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 1:16 pm 
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Quote:
The reason I got myself into this woeful mess was that I foolishly had the lures on the rod BEFORE unfurling the main.


Hrmm... I always launch with lures tied on, never had a problem (countless trips). Maybe it depends on how you position the lure on your rod maybe?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 2:46 pm 
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Great info Keith. I think they helped a lot!

Maybe the TI is different, if not, I need to look for some little flying saucers to add. (too late for my AI's)

On the paddle keeper, maybe removing the ss screws and washers and replacing with aluminum washers and pop rivets?

Thanks on the update.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 2:58 pm 
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A washer can only insulate the contact of the screw or rivet head, the shaft / threads still will be stainless to aluminum connection. The biggest issue is the paint coating here. It would be far better if annodized, but these crossbars apparently don't annozize well, so we had to go with e paint coating. The new TI beams may be able to go annodized in the future... still painting right now.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 4:02 pm 
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I agree, Bob. Pop rivets and nylon/aluminum washers are the way to go. I've bought them, but need to install. Your comment encourages me to put the zinc anodes "flying saucers" (from West Marine) on my wife's new boat, otherwise, her boat will be the next test.

Keith

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 5:01 pm 
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One of my two first AI's came with a flat black (Annodized?) finish and is still as good as new with no bubbling or mars in the finish other than dings I may have put in them.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:21 pm 
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great info keith, do you have any suggestions for the washer on the mast clip?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 12:47 am 
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Yakass wrote:
Quote:
The reason I got myself into this woeful mess was that I foolishly had the lures on the rod BEFORE unfurling the main.


Hrmm... I always launch with lures tied on, never had a problem (countless trips). Maybe it depends on how you position the lure on your rod maybe?


Probably....I would hook the lures onto the reel and the mainsheet would snatch them...I am learning though!!!!! Lost a rod just the other day, leash too short, had a bite, unclipped the rod (theres the folly) lost the fish replaced the rod went for the leash but in the bat of an eyelid the sheet caught the rod and flipped it overboard!!!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 3:01 am 
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Yeh, Philip, I lost one too recently--just bad practices in my case.

Keith

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 5:16 am 
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Chekika wrote:
Yeh, Philip, I lost one too recently--just bad practices in my case.

Keith


Keith,

It was a Fenwick, my finest most expensive rod....I nearly DIED. It was my Andaman Islands Rod...the biggie I used on our trip to the invisible bank....bad practice, your right. I watched it go....I was transfixed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 4:17 am 
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OK, back to the rusty Aka subject. Who has experienced corrosion in the crossbar mounting points?

Where the bars repairable? Has one ever failed from this corrosion?

Has anyone documented what this Aka bolt cancer looks like and the repair process?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 5:22 am 
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I'll add one more question.

Can anyone who has added zincs to their boat tell me if the zinks show signs of dissolving.

I have owned a number of boats that were moored permanently in salt water and always thought the zincs needed to be in contact with the salt water to do any good.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 10:55 pm 
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You are absolutely right, Jerry. When I attached zn electrodes to my AI (& my wife's AI), the assumption was that most of the corrosion is coming from use in salt water. One person suggested to me to run a wire from the electrode down into the water--probably a good idea, but I have not done it. I have 4 electrodes, 2 on each side--attached near the SS pin at the aka/x-bar hinge. When out sailing, I hope that there is a salt water link between the aluminum aka, the pin, and the anode.

Keith

PS I've been in the rocky mountains for the past 2 mo and have not kept up w/ this forum.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 11:03 pm 
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NOHUHU,

Kayaking Bob has commented on that issue once. There definitely is corrosion at that connection--same reason, different metals in contact w/ each other and salt water. Possibly crevice corrosion also.

Keith

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 1:41 am 
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I forget who posted it, but if you're carrying a battery for electronics, it's vital that it be disconnected. This however related to corrosion of the connection pins to the devices (eg, fish finder).

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