T.I. AMAS on an A.I. - any issues doing this?

Ha Ha. I think that well-nuts would be like playing russian roulette on the water - not "if', but "when"!

I have a few other ideas though. Need to spread the load of the front bolt and also make sure there's
no movement possible (and that nothing interferes with the rudder-up line.

It sounds like a lot of stuffing around for minimal improvements, but I've got a bit of spare time, so why not?

Cheers,

Mike.

Another way to look at this could be to shorten the length of one Aka set, at the hull, to get better alignment. It's easy to cut and rerivet the Aka joints, and this would pose no danger to the hull. If this works, you could always buy a spare stock set for the front or back, which you can then use whenever you want to go back to "standard" island mode.

Moving the Aka brace-balls can also tweak the Aka angles when they are deployed, but won't solve the folding issues.

Think I'll go pop some corn and wait to see what you come up with,..

_________________
The Wind Is Your Friend...

Thanks NOHUHU,

I've securely sickaflexed my aka knuckles into place - there's no way they will be moving any time soon.

I have a solution to

I did have a couple of other questions (don't mean to be too lazy to use the 'search' function!) about securing
the amas.

1: On the T.I. amas there's a metal pad-eye, just forward of the carry-handles, which is factory-fitted - what are these
intended to be used for? I'm planning on attaching some aka 'bracing-lines' (as per others have done) - would these
padeyes be strong enough for this purpose?

2: I'm thinking of going the double-bungee route to secure the amas to the akas. I know that Hobie can supply the double
bungee as a spare, but we all know it won't come cheap. What's the best way to do this yourself?

On the same subject, I'll need to add an extra eyelet post to the rear aka to provide the attachment point for the second bungee.
What's the best size rivet to use for this?

Cheers,

Mike.

_________________
The Wind Is Your Friend...

These were for the much anticipated jib sail that never made it to production. I used these pad eyes to do what you are looking at. They are plenty strong enough.

In my opinion that stainless padeye in the center of the AMA is the best place to attach the safety line clip on older boats. On the 2015 and newer boats I think that padeye was removed. On the newer boats I see no reason you couldn't clip the safety line to the strap on the lifting handle. Be sure to use lightweight stretchy 3/16 or 1/4 nylon line. You do not want to make the rope too strong which would prevent the nylon aka sheer bolt from breaking in the event of a collision or boat wakes. In the event the sheer bolt does break while underway the only purpose of the safety line is to prevent the AMA from folding in until you can stop and replace the sheer bolt on the water.
Two added benefits of the safety lines are:
They also prevent the AKA knuckles from popping out and falling off.
The safety lines also keep the AMA from banging around while underway making allot of noise, and prevent the AMA's from falling off if a bungy breaks or stretches ( this has happened to us several times, especially as the bungy's get older).
Hope this helps
FE

1. While my current "keep out lines" use that metal pad-eye, I am stopping that because if the ama runs into anything substantial, that pad-eye could get ripped out completely, ruining the ama. Instead, use a longer line, with a snapshackle on the end, and simply loop it around the vertical part of the aka and clip it onto itself. The bungees will keep it from riding up the aka.

2. Mike DON'T buy the Hobie double bungees! While they work fine, they cost about $20 each... that's $80 for a set of four! In addition, you have to add another "top-hat" to each front aka. Instead, just get some more bungee cord, some shackles, and feed loops through each deck fitting, joining them with the shackle. While you are at it, add dyeema rudder cord to make a bulletproof safety line, so the ama will NEVER come off the akas. Like this.

PS Just read fusioneng's post stating that the pad-eye is strong enough. So it is up to you whether to use the pad-eye or the rear aka for your safety line.

_________________
Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker

Can be mounted anyplace convenient, doesn't need to be my design, just be sure whatever you work out , test it.
FE

Just looking at ways to relocate the rear crossbar the requisite distance forward to
make the akas all-square.

I've given up on the idea of mounting the front-most crossbar clamp directly into the hull.
There's one of those screw-in padeye recesses right in the way of things. It can be done,
but the amount of mucking around and hassle is too great.

This is what I've come up with (see below) - a section of 25x5mm stainless-steel bar upon
which I'll mount the crossbar clamp.

I've also figured an easier way of getting the aka braces to fit - leave the brace-balls where they
are on the hull and simply modify the length of the brace-bars to bring the rear akas into correct
alignment.

If anyone has any comments or suggestions - I'm all ears!

Cheers,

Mike.

Hi NOHUHU,

Do you have any specs for the extra pip you used (hopefully it's a metric size!

Also, if you have any extra instructions on how you attached the extension, that would be most helpful!

Cheers,

Mike.