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PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:16 pm 
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stringy wrote:
Galager,
The mast receiver is one piece. You can see a pic of it by using the parts finder here:
https://www.hobie.com/parts-and-accesso ... 1489782536
The mast receiver may not be broken as it could have just slipped out of place?
The stud goes through the v brace base plate and mast receiver 'toe' and into a thread in the brass molded-in hull fitting.
You will need to remove the broken stud from this brass fitting and replace it with the upgraded stronger slotted head stud.


Many thanks for the reply stringy. I'll have to take a ride to my uncles and see what actually happened in person. It would be great if Hobie had a repair manual showing diagrams of all the parts, like with a car or motorcycle. You'd think it wouldn't be so hard to produce. Actual dealers around here are scarce and far away. Hopefully that fitting is still in the hull!


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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2018 8:32 am 
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Brass nut appears to be intact. I have spare studs and locknuts. V brace will not line up with mast receiver and nut without force which I don't want to do for fear of breaking anything else. How do I get these to line up properly? Loosen the turnbuckles?

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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2018 11:19 am 
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Location: Cherry Hill, NJ
^^^^
Wow, that would have broke my heart to see that. Back those nuts all the way down and then start turning the turnbuckles to get it to line up.


I have a 2017 just checked mine. V Brace was tight and the center bolt was on and only slightly snug- tightened down.

I am so glad I read this thread!

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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2018 3:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
Posts: 2847
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
galager wrote:
Brass nut appears to be intact. I have spare studs and locknuts. V brace will not line up with mast receiver and nut without force which I don't want to do for fear of breaking anything else. How do I get these to line up properly? Loosen the turnbuckles?


It would be good if Hobie would chime in here and list the correct procedure (its been asked for a few times in this post)
...but if I was doing that Galager I’d be:
-loosening everything associated with the V-Frame: turnbuckles, top strut fastenings and X-bar socket screws
-make sure the mast base stud was tight (use Loctite)
-adjust the turnbuckles so that the V-frame base was evenly pushing on the mast receiver toe over the stud down as far as possible without distorting the hull
-tighten the top strut fastenings and X-Bar socket screws
-adjust turnbuckles again if necessary
-fit the lock nut and tighten securely
-tighten turnbuckle locknuts.

Hobie’s recommendations may be different though- Matt?


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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 4:46 am 
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robfromnj wrote:
^^^^
Wow, that would have broke my heart to see that. Back those nuts all the way down and then start turning the turnbuckles to get it to line up.


I have a 2017 just checked mine. V Brace was tight and the center bolt was on and only slightly snug- tightened down.

I am so glad I read this thread!


I assume you’re talking about the locknuts holding the v brace at the top to the deck as well as the turnbuckle locknuts? I see you’re from NJ. This boat is on lake hopatcong. I’m headed out there today. Wish me luck!


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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 4:49 am 
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stringy wrote:
galager wrote:
Brass nut appears to be intact. I have spare studs and locknuts. V brace will not line up with mast receiver and nut without force which I don't want to do for fear of breaking anything else. How do I get these to line up properly? Loosen the turnbuckles?


It would be good if Hobie would chime in here and list the correct procedure (its been asked for a few times in this post)
...but if I was doing that Galager I’d be:
-loosening everything associated with the V-Frame: turnbuckles, top strut fastenings and X-bar socket screws
-make sure the mast base stud was tight (use Loctite)
-adjust the turnbuckles so that the V-frame base was evenly pushing on the mast receiver toe over the stud down as far as possible without distorting the hull
-tighten the top strut fastenings and X-Bar socket screws
-adjust turnbuckles again if necessary
-fit the lock nut and tighten securely
-tighten turnbuckle locknuts.

Hobie’s recommendations may be different though- Matt?


As always, thanks for the input stringy. Haven’t laid eyes on one of these boats since October, so I assume once I get in front of it, it will all start making sense again.

Matt did respond to an email I sent directly. But I agree, it would be good and seemingly pretty simple for someone to create written instructions on how to properly do this procedure. Would cut down a lot on us bugging the Hobie guys!


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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 7:59 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
Posts: 3019
Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
The V brace linkages are infinately adjustable to any position or orientation you desire. Stringy’s discription is good. The only thing I would add is on one of my boats from the factory had the V brace system way too long, leaving a big bulge under the boat in the area around the V brace. After breaking the stud (I’ve broken around 8-10 of those studs).
In order to get rid of that giant bulge in the hull I let the boat sit on flat concrete for a day or so, (with the V brace removed).
Then when putting in the new stud, I always make sure to use locktite. You then just adjust the rods until the plate is over the correct position. Hint: the tops of the rods are attached to the molded in brass inserts by bolt/nuts, it’s best to leave those just finger tight, (so they can move forward and back) during the time you are adjusting the rods. Then once everything else in adjusted and tightened down, then go back and tighten those nuts back down.
The whole trick is to adjust the rods so the plate lands over the correct natural position without bending and straining the hull. The rods are infinately adjustable to any position you need, it takes patience. Once everything is adjusted spin the nuts down and tighten, (I put a drop of blue locktite under the nut), you want everything pretty tight, (everything has a habit of coming loose, so it all needs to be inspected once it a while).
Do not use just any old 1/4-20 stud (they are not strong enough). You have to use the super high grade stud with a rolled thread that Hobie supplies, (it has a screw driver slot on one end).
Important bolts to check:
The bolts holding the cross bar end caps down tend to work loose, check them once in a while.
There are two bolts under plastic covers near the center of the cross bar that hold the 1” aluminum spacer in place, need to be checked once in a while, if they come loose the entire cross bar will slide back and forth when tacking, (not a good thing).
Once everything is assembled and tight put the mast in and make sure there is a gap between the bottom of the furler drum and the top of the delrin bearing plate. If they rub, that’s not good, some just re-adjust and shorten their V rods to get the gap right, however I prefer to put washers under the 4 screws on the inside of the mast holder to lift that plate a little higher if needed. You will need a really long phillips screw driver, I always use blue locktite on those 4 screws, (they tend to work loose).
One other thing to check if the furler drum is hitting the delrin bearing plate, is the furler drum itself sliding up and down on the mast. I have had two TI masts where the epoxy turned white and failed and the furler drum was sliding up and down on the mast. I’m not sayin anything needs to be done, I’m just sayin if the furler drum is hitting the bearing plate, make sure the furler drum is not loose.
I’m not suggesting there is anything wrong with Hobies design, on a stock boat you should not have issues. However when massively souping up the boat, all that stuff breaks. The optional Hobie spinnaker is tiny and pretty well designed to work within the boats design parameters, just keep it within their stated specs.
Thats all
FE


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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 8:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2018 4:26 am
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Location: Cherry Hill, NJ
galager wrote:
robfromnj wrote:
^^^^
Wow, that would have broke my heart to see that. Back those nuts all the way down and then start turning the turnbuckles to get it to line up.


I have a 2017 just checked mine. V Brace was tight and the center bolt was on and only slightly snug- tightened down.

I am so glad I read this thread!


I assume you’re talking about the locknuts holding the v brace at the top to the deck as well as the turnbuckle locknuts? I see you’re from NJ. This boat is on lake hopatcong. I’m headed out there today. Wish me luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am at the other end of the state in Cherry Hill. Good luck with the mast.

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Rob From NJ
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5KKul ... subscriber


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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 6:35 pm 
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All seems to have gone well. Thanks for all the input. Definitely needed to undo everything as mast receiver was sitting in front of studs and needed to come up and back, so just loosening the brace wasn’t going to cut it.

https://imgur.com/gallery/KamRgfN


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 12:09 pm 
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I thought my bolt sheared, but it turns out the socket was ripped out of the hull. Is there a recommended fix for this?

Image

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Photos:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMp-XmeN2Uq-McmcMJRx_mLswbWkEmz-PNYugnvGOLBSKj_0dOYoRwaqBA8-__nzQ?key=cGxtcDd5R0lYbjNHV2hHMUtZSzNPZWx5Qm90V2ZB


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 10:31 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2019 11:53 am
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Thought I'd post an update and try again for advice...

Unfortunately, after working with my local Hobie dealer, the dealer reported that Hobie stated they did not have a recommended fix for this. I did purchase my TI second hand, so I'm wondering if previous owner "upgraded" the bolt since it's supposed to be the weak point.

My tentative plan is to drill out a larger hole and epoxy a new nut in place, something like a rivet nut or T-nut for the set screw. My concern is that I want to make sure I'm getting strong and durable material. I've found potential stainless and brass options on Amazon, but I don't trust unbranded hardware. I also want to make sure my epoxy plan makes sense. Any thoughts on products that will adhere well?


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