Ama sealing and Spare Rudder Pin location

I just brought home my brand-new (to me) 2012 Tandem Island, and I'm very excited. 2 questions so far from going over the boat:

1. The manual says there's a spare rudder pin in the rear 8" hatch? Where is it? I've had a look around and didn't find it. That probably means it has been used, but I didn't find where it mounts either.

2. On my starboard ama, the screw-in padeyes are not watertight. On the port one they are (I know because when I opened the port drain plug, air whooshed out). It that normal or a big problem? Big problem, right? Amas are supposed to be watertight? What do I use to seal and glue in that padeye?

3. Is the Hobie first aid kit a good buy? I need one for the boat, and I like the idea of the hatch fit case.

Thanks,
Brian

Any of the screw in fittings can be a source of leaks. Problems with rotomolding/thread cutting can lead to holes all the way through the plastic.

Fortunately its an easy fix, usually solved by a coating of marine sealant to the threads. I use Sikaflex 291.

It's a shame that whoever is cutting the threads during the hull fitout at Hobie isn't using sealant on those fitting cups that are obviously damaged!
All my Hobie's have had problems with leaking fittings. My '10 TI had two front hatch bungee fittings that poured water straight into the hull. Even my latest '16 Oasis had a couple of seat padeye fittings that leaked.
It seems that Hobie can't or won't address these minor but annoying, though easily fixed, leaks?

Kd5crs,

The spare rudder pin should be in the the hatch lid.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

_________________
2015 Hobie Tandem Island Hibiscus
"Third Normal Form"

• Trampolines
• Hobie cover
• Davis Spar Fly
• Kayakbob's Sprayskirts
• Spine Board Hakas

kd5crs
Mine wasn't either but came with the rest of the spare kit. For info, I keep it attached to my PFD... Also worth purchasing a couple of spares if doing longer journey.

_________________
2015 Tandem Island - Golden Papaya "HALIBOO"
(retired) Outback - Hibiscus Red

Congrats on your purchase! I will skim over stuff already answered by others...
1. Over 4 years since new it would be amazing if everything is still in place. Bottom line, buy a couple of spare rudder pins (AND aka brace pins!), and always replace any used. Totally ignore the use of a split ring in the bottom, as the up/down lines in the V at the top will the rudder pin in place, even if upside down on the roof. I always file out the hole in aka brace pins, to make enough room for a small ziptie. This is used instead of those split pins (Islands come originally with a nut under the aka brace pin, but these always go this first time a pin breaks). If you break a pin, cut the ziptie just behind the catch, and reuse the shortened ziptie to retain the the new pin in place.


2. As stated, use Sikaflex
3. In my opinion, no, as those little Hobie containers are NOT waterproof, as water tends to seep in when you open the hatch. There are plenty of excellent first aid kits out there, and it depends on how far you expect you may be away from help. I have attempted to equip my TI with a first aid kit (theoretically) capable of coping for 10 hours or more from help (with some serious pain-killers from my prescription supply). If you have not had any first aid training, it is a good idea to buy a kit which includes clear instructions for various scenarios. A VHF radio is also a good first aid tool...

_________________
Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker

I would think a VHF radio is a must for anyone sailing offshore. What is "offshore?" That, of course, is a matter of opinion, but perhaps .5 mile or more. Also, anyone who goes solo sailing must have a VHF radio, a whistle (in the States), and, I suggest, a SPOT device. If you go camping, a PLB (personal locating beacon) is also a good suggestion. WaterTribe members are fond of saying, "two is one and one is none," meaning if one (a SPOT or PLB) fails, you have the second to fall back on for rescue. If you have only one, and it fails, you have nothing. Again, at a minimum, you need a VHF radio. These safety devices must be carried on your PFD. You want rescuers to find you, not your empty boat.

Tony's advice on a 1st aid kit is sound. I always carry my own, self-made kit. It, along with my "repair" bag, is placed in the round hatch directly in front of me. BTW, my repair bag has 2-3 spare rudder pins and 6+ spare aka brace pins. The aka-brace pins are a mix of standard Hobie brace pins and nylatron pins--I use nylatron aka-brace pins in my AI 2 and Tandem boats.

Keith

_________________
2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

"Less is more" Anon

I believe with the larger Island rudder systems... the Island spares are only in the manual package upon delivery. The smaller / older twist and stow pin is the only one that fits in the hatch lid.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Your probably right. I keep mine in the gear bucket. But it's been months since I've sailed. I think I remember mine hanging by the split ring inside the rear hatch.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

_________________
2015 Hobie Tandem Island Hibiscus
"Third Normal Form"

• Trampolines
• Hobie cover
• Davis Spar Fly
• Kayakbob's Sprayskirts
• Spine Board Hakas

That's what I recall Tom, and I reckon that is a perfect example of why those split ring should be ditched asap. What a horribly fiddly job, reaching into the hatch to undo the rudder pin, especially if you are attempting this at sea! Replacing the pin at sea is difficult enough without expending your energy fighting that f**king split ring!

I keep my spare rudder and brace pins in a gear bucket too.

_________________
Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker

Ok, good to know. Sikaflex and extra rudder pins are on order. My local Hobie store was out of TI rudder pins, so I'll probably order some more once they come in so I have spares.

My boat came with the TI dolly with beach wheels. Since it is 3000 ft to the boat ramp on neighborhood streets, my plan is to just walk the boat there and back. To that end, I replaced the beach wheels with some Harbor Freight no-flat 10" dolly wheels. (There was some mildly clever parts getting all of the sizes to fit together, which I'll cover in a separate post.) Good news, it rolls very easily now. Bad news, it is really hard to get the TI into the trailer dolly! Those rubber no-slip pads are a bear, especially because I have such low rolling resistance. Even with the wheels chocked I end up dragging the dolly more than sliding the boat.

Aside from the fact that I need better wheel chocks, what's the preferred way of making the Hobie dolly cradle more slippery? Will a coating of 303 do it, or do I also need to remove the rubber pads? If I remove the rubber pads, is there an easy-to-work slippery substitute material y'all use to replace the rubber pads?

Thanks,
Brian

Get rid of the rubber pads. I have no pads of any kind on my cradles.

Keith

_________________
2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

"Less is more" Anon