Securing TI to trailer

All the pictures and videos I see of TIs on trailers use two cinch straps to attach the TI to the trailer. That's it. Is that really enough? Seems like a good bump on the highway could dislodge that setup. What about bow and stern lines? Those are more or less required when cartopping a kayak. Do people tie those lines, too? Hard to tell from the photos on here, and I don't see any recommendations.

For reference, this is the trailer I have in mind: https://www.austinkayak.com/Hobie-Tande ... 7616P.html (it's the Trailex with cradles if you don't want to click).

My trailer has a bow snubbing block, I attach the bow line to this which secures fore & aft movement.
Then the cinch straps over both hull supports. Nothing at the back.
If your proposed trailer doesn't have a bow snub, then personally I would attach bow & stern lines - or would it be possible to fit one?

I have 2 straps for the main hull but the AMAs are tied separately. Have them spaced away from the main hull, strapping everything together puts scratches where they touch. Also my trailer uses PVC tube to support the main hull, not the crappy hobie cradles. Tried them and hated them. PVC works much better.

True - I use foam sheets between the main & amas which works well & helps prevents rattling.

I used PVC tubing to also cradle the amas as well so that they never touch the body. No more scratches. I wish I knew this before I scratched them badly using the Hobie cradles, which are indeed crappy. My cradles broke into several pieces, after which I went to the PVC setup which is far superior.

As for securing the TI to the trailer, I attach it to the front bow snubbing block via the trailer's winch, then to the trailer itself using four cinching tie-down straps, each attached to the front and rear ama supports which are the strongest tie-down points. Using only two may also work, but I just don't want to risk it. The straps secure both the main hull and the amas together, but since the amas are cradled away from the main hull, they do not get scratched.

I wouldn't mind trying the PVC cradles. This boat is a 2012, and the cradles are causing some deformation on the front. Also, I don't like how the front cradle overhangs the cross bar on the trailer. This was back when the official package for the TI used the 200-AI trailer, which is really more for an AI. Came straight from Hobie like this though. Got the certificate of origin and everything. That being said, because the 200-AI front crossbar is short, some kind of modification would have to happen to make the bar long enough to support PVC cradles.

I should add that the deformation appears to be happening because the ridges in the cradle don't quite line up with the grooves in the boat. Moving the boat fore or aft doesn't seem to solve the problem, either. It just shifts the issue to the other cradle.

If you arrange the two cross straps so that they envelope the aka braces, it's not going to slip, slide nor dislodge.

Be advised that if you don't allow the PVC cradles to sag/flex in the middle in order to conform to the hull, they'll deform your boat just like the ill-fitting Hobie cradles do. I see a good many people using my PVC idea but they stop short of understanding why the PVC has to be able to flex from end to end. It works well if you do it right. Do it wrong and your hull may suffer.

I use two straps across, plus a rubber strap through the front carry handle tied down in a vee shape, that seems to stabilize it a lot and give me extra peace of mind.

Still trying to figure out a good way to stabilize the outriggers using the pvc bunks, any ideas, people have mentioned foam sheets but I am having trouble picturing it.

I am in the process of updating my trailer for my TI.

I currently use the Hobie cradles - but I am not happy with them. I am researching moving to a PVC setup.

I will be mounting the PVC on 5X10 foot flat bed of utility trailer. Reason - for longer trips - we carry second kayak and extra gear + outboard for the TI. Thus need the extra space for the gear.

I would love to see a few photos of PVC designs for the TI.

I have seen a few PVC design options:

- Flex PVC design with twin 3" PVC pipe acting as flexible bunks for the TI
- Stiff PVC design with wooden dowels
- Stiff wooden dowels with vinal coating

The stiff designs have a notch cut out for the newer TIs that have the scupper seat drain holes.

I am leaning towards the "stiff design" plus adding a small roll bar at the back for easy off and on loading. Reference post by fusioneng: https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic. ... er+islands

Please post pictures / videos - much appreciated.

_________________
Jim
Hobie TI 2022 - Offshore rig - Outboard - having fun!
Hobie TI 2021 - Offshore rig - Outboard - sold
Hobie TI 2016 - Offshore rig - Outboard - sold
Hobie Kona 2014
Hobie AI 2015 - sold
Hobie Rev 13 2014 - sold
Hobie Outback - 2008 - sold

My PVC bunks are semi-rigid. I have wood supports ~ 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 square inside the PVC (just ripped from a 2x4). Allows the pipe to flex but not too much providing extra strength. Attached to the trailers original bunks spaced at same distance as the Hobie cradle installation requirement of 67". The bunks provide the protected surface to strap the ama's down.

Used a heat gun to make the indentations for the venturi ports which keeps the edges smooth. The TI just clicked into place as I slide it in.

Thanks s9utct!

This just the type of information that I am looking for.

Reaching out to other TI owners to share their trailer set ups.

Anyone have an example of the stiff set up (thinner pvc pipe with wooden dowels inside)?

_________________
Jim
Hobie TI 2022 - Offshore rig - Outboard - having fun!
Hobie TI 2021 - Offshore rig - Outboard - sold
Hobie TI 2016 - Offshore rig - Outboard - sold
Hobie Kona 2014
Hobie AI 2015 - sold
Hobie Rev 13 2014 - sold
Hobie Outback - 2008 - sold

Jim, you can catch a pretty good glimpse of my trailer set up on my YT channel @Mcoop571.
The PVC is 1&1/2” schedule 40. The spacing for the main hull is 11”. It is only attached in the front and in the rear (bolted in place at 11”), the entire underside is supported from below, but allowed to float “side to side” to conform to the hull. Boat still looks new after four seasons.
Be sure to notch tubing for scupper spots and water drains.

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'09 Adventure Island (SOLD)
2017 Tandem Island

Thanks mcoop57,

This is just the information that I am looking for.

I did take a peek at the YT video. It helped a lot to see your set up.

Looks like the Hobie Island slides off easily and that you need a bow line to keep it from getting away from you on the ramp / beach.

If you get a chance can you provide a picture of the stern and bow areas showing how the Island sits on the PVC?

Thanks in advance.

Jim

_________________
Jim
Hobie TI 2022 - Offshore rig - Outboard - having fun!
Hobie TI 2021 - Offshore rig - Outboard - sold
Hobie TI 2016 - Offshore rig - Outboard - sold
Hobie Kona 2014
Hobie AI 2015 - sold
Hobie Rev 13 2014 - sold
Hobie Outback - 2008 - sold