Few recommendations:
- Run the straps around the hull, not the AKAs or sail.
- Hobie cradles are OK, but I have found they crack over time.... I have moved to solid vinyl coated closet rods (wood). Work great.
- I normally remove the seats and outboard and stow in car (not on trailer) for short runs (<500 miles). Long runs (>500 miles), I do keep the seats and outboard on the trailer (but not mounted to the TI). I use a small utility trailer that has a floor and space to store the extra stuff!
See photos below for a few ideas.
- For long runs (>500 miles), I typically take 2 kayaks with a Hobie Kona on top of the TI (sitting on the Hobie H Bars with foam between), seats, outboard, sand wheels all on the trailer.
- See photo of the empty trailer to see the vinyl coated closet rods used to guide and support the TI. Note I have removed the ventri drains from both seats on the TI (not needed in my opinion) for smooth ramp launches and recoveries. Strong and works great.
- I do use a bow stop and a stern centering roller to help control the bow and stern of the TI.
- This is a low profile trailer (low to the ground) to aid in launching and recovering the TI.
- The trailer is lightweight and is set up to reduce wind drag while on the highway.
- I try to keep the pressure on the mast / sail to a minimum (simple bungies not too tight).
- On overnight long runs (>1000 miles) I also add security cables and alarms to protect key items (outboard, seats, drives, spare tire....) and trailer.
- The trailer has a folding tongue extension to accommodate the length of the TI and to fit everything into my garage.
- Trailer is aluminum with redwood deck which helps reduce salt water corrosion.
Hobie Tandem Island Trailer by
Jim Powers, on Flickr
Powers Family 2022-Q3 by
Jim Powers, on Flickr
Powers Family 2022-Q3 by
Jim Powers, on Flickr
Hobie Tandem Island Trailer by
Jim Powers, on Flickr
Hobie Tandem Island Trailer by
Jim Powers, on Flickr