Cracked drive well; can't afford hull replacement; advice?

I bought an AI in June 2011 (four years ago) new from a dealer, although it turned out to be a 2009 boat. I mostly kayak with it (only occasionally sail). I've developed a crack along the bottom running up into the drive well (picture attached). It is taking on a lot of water. I took it to the dealer and am quoted $949 for a replacement hull, which unfortunately I cannot afford currently. So I am leaning toward attempting a repair...

I've read the various threads including the one by Road Runner mentioning dp8010. It seems like most people say the repairs generally fail relatively quickly... so am wondering if I am just wasting my time trying to fix it... ?

Also, the DP8010 doesn't seem to be available for sale anymore. Is DP 8005 a reasonable replacement?

And which is better to try first: that or the Hobie welding kit?

Also open to any other suggestions of course. I want to get on the water ASAP. Apparently everyone in my life is telling me I shouldn't be so depressed over a boat but they've never owned a Hobie.

Your picture--reduced in size:




Others can give you help on repairing that. One link to hull repair is http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=53677

Keith

_________________
2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

"Less is more" Anon

That's a shame recycle. I understand your depression at not being able to use your Hobie.
You have the classic drivewell crack that was common on earlier hulls. I had an '08 which lasted a year before the crack developed. It was warrantied with an '09 which lasted about the same time and was replaced with an '11 which is still going strong, so you can be assured Hobie have got on top of the issue.
You would be much better off if you had the hull replaced. Hobie don't recommend a repair as that ledge is such a high stress area and it's difficult to achieve a reliable fix.
You have filed a warranty claim?
Was that $949 the cost of the pro-rata warranty?

Thanks Chekika, I guess I don't need the crack to be any bigger than it is!

Thanks stringy, I figured I would at least get some sympathy here. That's at least a little encouraging the newer hull would be better. Yes, the $949 (actually with tax I guess it would be $1025) was the quote given by my dealer after filing a warranty claim with Hobie. I'm not really complaining about the price, it seems reasonable since it's out of warranty, I just can't cover it now.

I've read through a lot of posts on repairing, and it seems most people agree fixes don't hold for that crack, that's why I wonder if it's even worth investing $100 or so on the materials and tools...

This is my one issue with the Islands. Im a huge fan and always will be. But still its hard to get over the 6-7k plastic boat thing you know? To have a crack and entire hulls needing to be replaced. It's cool how Hobie really works with you on that but still... I will probably always have a functioning island for the rest of my life as long as the income is there. But maybe in the future they will have some crazy dirt cheap material that is indestructible that will be a better solution. i can hope

_________________
"Not everyone who wanders is lost." - Tolkien

Hear ya, but 99.99% of the issues were from 2006-2009 ish... even then, the failure rate was VERY low compared to the number of hulls built. It is not really a concern these days. Our claim rate is extremely low. Every production process, when designed to be as light as possible, can have issues.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Yeah it is pretty crazy to be able to lift a 19 ft boat with 11 ft beam on top of my truck and take it anywhere.

_________________
"Not everyone who wanders is lost." - Tolkien

Can the crack be welded?

Yes it can be welded, and successfully. The trick is the welding process, however, which requires that you do more than just put molten plastic into the crack. The plastic surrounding the crack has to be hot enough so that the new plastic going in tends to meld into the hull plastic. The idea is to end up with one piece of solid plastic, not a crack filled with new plastic.

You need to get the hull plastic along the crack fairly hot and a bit soft, and then and only then run the new molten plastic in the crack.

A good plastic weld job is probably the best..

Just out of curiousity.. if that were a fiberglass part, you could "glue" in a fix (like epoxy and glass).

Is there any "glue" that sticks to these plastic kayaks? I was trying to glue a basket inside the access just in front of the seat and gave up. So far I have tried 3M 5200 and a bunch of different types of contact cements (Im pretty sure also goop) and they just dont hold well.

I have not tried an epoxy like JB weld yet. I know it sticks fairly well to PVC. I also dont think regular epoxy (like West System) would work but also have not tried it.

Urethane supply (experts) suggest stainless mesh welded into the repair. Our KC Welder Pro kits include the mesh now. Like "adding re-bar to concrete".

http://www.urethanesupply.com/

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Thank you Matt and Tom that is very helpful advice. I actually spent a few hours today surfing around (one advantage of being unemployed) trying to find anyone who has successfully fixed this type of crack. I found one reference to someone in these forums (http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=49210&hilit=crack#p244415) who has a successful weld that lasted "years". He used a steel mesh which seems to distinguish his approach from the various failed attempts I came across. His directions are detailed but I feel much more confident seeing the video.

I think Tom's advice is also sage as a few people had tried to weld but it "fell out" because it didn't "join" with the surrounding material, so I will look out for that.

I am going to order the Hobie welding kit and give it a try next week. I will document the attempt and report back here.

One question: I'm thinking about the white "plug". Should I try to remove it and weld some material in there, or leave it in place and weld around?

I appreciate everyone's help and always welcome further suggestions. Hope lives for my Hobie!

The white plug is a cap over a brass fitting designed to attract more material to the area during molding. You can pop the cap out to get a weld right up to the brass... I think I would weld over the brass as well, as a water barrier. After a weld has been completed, I would add the 3M material to the interior of the area as a back up water barrier and stiffener.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

I've never had a crack with 4 AIs, but that sounds like excellent advice, Matt. Thanks!

Keith

_________________
2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

"Less is more" Anon

I look forward to your report and really hope you can fix this properly, recycle. The reinforcing mesh may just be what's needed for a successful repair.
If it doesn't work then at least you can fall back on the hull replacement option, if funds become available, as you have documented the warranty claim already.
Just out of interest, did your dealer detail what hull you were to receive for your $1000? Thinking about this, although it sounds expensive it does seem reasonable if you are getting a later hull with all the upgrade improvements. I guess the latest hull would be a '14 as the '15 AI is totally different and Hobie no longer include the molded in AI bits on the '15 Adventure/ Revo 16.

PS- One more thing to think about ...your re-sale value would be much higher with the later warrantied hull, than with a repaired earlier hull.