Rudder "up" line jammed in turning block

A couple days ago I took the TI out and couldn't get the rudder to go down all the way. Then I tried to pull it back up - and couldn't pull the up control! Limped back to the boat ramp and found the line had jumped off the turning block pulley and was jammed between the pulley and the body of the block.

Kneeling in the water at the boat ramp, I was *barely* able to reach the turning block but couldn't unjam the line. I finally just pulled hard on the rudder side of the line to retract the handle so it wasn't holding the rudder up. Right now I'm using the other up control.

Searching here I found a couple threads where people asked about this issue but nothing very enlightening. (The search terms are rather generic - rudder, line, jam...)

I know I'll be able to unjam the line, even if I have to unscrew the block, but what may have caused this to happen and is it likely to repeat? Is there anything I can do to help prevent it?

A secondary issue: On the return trip, with the rudder only partially down, I had to crank *HARD* on the rudder control just to go in something resembling a straight line. One result of that is I now have some slack in my rudder lines. I had hoped it was one of the two running to the rudder, but no it's in the link between the two handles. Suggestions on how best to adjust that? I haven't even looked at that yet, but I assume it's just a piece of line with a loop on each end. Bit concerned about what "gave" to produce the slack...!


Looks like I'll be spending some quality time playing contortionist... I also picked up an Evolve yesterday, and it'll be a trick reaching the area (rear seat drive well) I want to mount the bulkhead connector too.

Okay, I think I have an idea how events transpired...

I found that my rudder *down* lines didn't want to retract very well. Looking around inside I found this:




I suspect these made it much harder to raise the rudder, causing me to pull harder than usual on the up handle. Here's a short - n - shaky video clip of the up turning block after being unjammed:

https://youtu.be/p1sW_nQc6wg



The clicking noise is one concern, is the turning block damaged? Does it every time there's a load on it (as the rudder raises).

However, what I'm more concerned with is the sharp angle at which the line running to the back approaches. Seems like that would make it a lot likelier to "jump the track" and jam. Both front turning blocks are like this.

So my questions now are:

1) Do I replace the clicking turning block?

2) Is there something that can be done to reduce the angle the up/down lines take when approaching the blocks? (I tried just moving them around but they usually go back to the same position when I pull the handles.)

3) How do I get rid of the twist in the down lines? I tried just untwisting them but they immediately re-twist.

Fascinating. I had figured the single line running from that "down" turning block back to the rudder was twisted, causing the turning block to twist and wind the two lines going to the handles together.

Nope!

I hooked a safety line on the bungee portion aft of the turning block then managed to untie the knot attaching the single line running back to the turning block. Spun the block - and could feel the resistance! As soon as I let go of the turning block the two lines going to the handles twisted themselves back together! Never seen a cord do that before...

So what can be done to cure these lines of their desire to intertwine?!

I believe those lines should be running under the gunnels (sides), not down into the center of the hull.

_________________

Hobie Island Sailing since 2006

That was my thought too, but I can't move them there as things are now. For instance the "up" line is run inside of the rudder lines and front steering handle such that trying to move it outboard causes it to cross over / wrap around them. Will have to look into that more, see if I can relocate something somehow.

I have made progress. I kept untying the "down" turning block at the back and untwisting the lines then giving them an extra twist past straight. Tie on the rear line again, run the rudder up and down. The lines seem to be willing to stay straight now, they were twisting back up at first but after undoing them a couple more times I'm down to where (last I looked) I just had 1/2 - 1 twist which still lets the "down" lines retract fully.

That made the "up" action a LOT easier, I've apparently had that long twist in there for some time.

Still a bit worried about the clicking turning block on the front "up" handle. Might go by the kayak shop and see if they'll give me another one since it's only 8 months old...

On the whole an educational day, I now know in much greater detail how the rudder lines work!