New, Large Rudder Upgrade Installation

I finally received my new "upgraded" PA-14 rudder and I'm looking for the official installation video from Hobie that walks us through the installation process.

Apologies up front if this has already been linked, I haven't run into it yet.

Out yesterday in three foot steep wind chop and it was a bear to keep the PA on track. I'm hoping the new, larger rudder will help.

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Know where you are, don't be a fool.

Sorry but I don't believe there's been a video made here - I know that replacing the rudder can be difficult due to the fact the sister screw which is holding the blade into the housing being loctited on. So you might need to drill out that screw if you're not able to overcome the loctite holding strength.
You'll need to remove the assembly from the boat - take off the deck plate on top of the rudder. and remove the mount from the drum via either a screw or a roll pin (depending on which version your boat came with) Untie or cut the up string holding it into the boat right at the rudder. Next put the assembly on a vise or table and work at removing the screw. Again - this is the most tricky part - due to loctite being used in the assembly process at the factory. Once you remove the sister screw it's just a matter of re-installing the new larger rudder and putting it back into the hull same way it came out. It isn't a difficult job, only the screw removal is tricky depending on how tight the loctite holds (this can widely vary depending on how much was used by the assembly personnel in the factory.

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Jacques Bernier
http://www.hobie.com/
http://www.facebook.com/HobieCatCompany

We are looking at adding some parts to this rudder (kit) due to replacement hassles.

84502301 Sister Screw
8031490 Screw
8000341 Loc Tite

If you damage the screw or have to drill it out.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

This is what I posted on Jan 31, 2014......"I just installed the new rudder in my PA-14.....Graeme's photo's and info are spot on......my only suggestion is to know upfront, the two screws that the rudder pivots on, in the stainless steel bracket/shaft assembly, are "Locktited" with red/permanent Loctite.
The Philips head screw, is a flat head machine screw about 1/2" long.....it threads into a hollow "shaft" that has a common head slot on the back end.
Make sure you select the largest Philips head and slotted head screw drivers that fit so you do not strip the heads.....especially the shaft-slotted head hardware......might be hard to find a replacement with out ordering from Hobie.....the Loctite really bonds the hardware together.
I was able to break the Loctite bond while applying/pushing significant force to the screw heads, with the screw drivers while unscrewing at the same time.

The spring is easy to switch over.....as Graeme noted, pay attention to the spring installation when taking it apart from the old rudder.

Good luck!"

Hope this helps you change over the rudder.....

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Warrenton, OR

When I installed my new larger rudder I used a soldering iron on the sister screw. It will heat up the screw and melt the Loctite. Installed the rudder, reapplied Loctite to the sister screw and I was good to go!

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2012 Hobie Revolution 13.5
2013 Hobie Outback
2014 Hobie PA-14

Thanks to all for the quick and helpful responses. The application of direct heat to release LocTite is a great old mechanics trick. A good quality heat gun works as well.

Matt, could you suggest to Hobie that this might be a *really* good candidate for one of your excellent support videos?

In the meantime, where can we sign up for the rudder replacement parts kit?

_________________
Know where you are, don't be a fool.

Actually with these recent responses, we are not making it a kit, but the parts can be ordered if needed.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Thanks for the great tip. Used the soldering iron, and mine came right apart. Very straightforward install this morning.

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Mark
Magnolia Springs, AL
2014 Hobie PA12, 2015 Hobie PA 12, 2013 Outback and 2012 Revo11

I made the change on two PA14s & it is a chore with the sister screw setup. You might as well order these parts from Hobie as 1/2 is special machined. Taking the old one off requires a dremel tool with small grinding wheels & then a punchout. Fortunately my wife is a gemologist & had the necessary tools to do it. Good luck.

Except several other report:

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

For anyone that might see this before upgrading to the larger rudder.
This is what the threaded pin looks like after it is apart.
The slotted end is the main body and the phillips side is the retaining screw.








If I were applying the heat to soften the locktite, I would heat the phillips head side with either a soldering iron (as others have already done) or a small narrow flame, concentrating the flame in the middle of the screw head.
IMO, I would avoid using a heat gun. I would think that a heat gun might cause some damage by heating up the surrounding plastic parts.

When I upgraded my rudder on my PA12 with a polycarbonate one that I made, I replaced the factory pin with a stainless steel bolt and a nylon locknut. You want to use a locknut because you don't want to tighten the bolt too much and pinch the U bracket closed
The bolt that I used was originally longer and has a portion of unthreaded area under the head so it won't wear the rudder hole when pivoting up and down.





Hope this helps somebody out

Hi In2Deep,

What's the thickness of the polycarbonate you used?

It's made from 1/4"
It really is .230 if memory serves me right
The are 1/8 thick shim washers on each side to make it the right width for the rudder bracket

Everyone, just completed this upgrade. Have yet to test the new rudder on the water. I wanted to add my perspective since there isn't a ton of information on the web about the sister screw disassembly. All said and done, it's an extremely easy upgrade except for that sister screw.

First, heating the sister screw with a soldering iron was necessary. Between the corrosion and the loctite, chances are you aren't going to free the sister screw on your own. Heat it until the loctite is cooked. This took me a few minutes of alternating heat between the two sides, with more heat on the philips head.

Second, after heating the sister screw I had to use an impact driver to free it up.

My advice? If I were preparing to do this upgrade again, I would have purchased spare hardware. Guaranteed someone will strip those screws out, and if that someone is you, you'll want to be able to simply drill it out and replace it.