PA 14 Trailer

That does make sense, but I worked in a tire shop for years and have seen the effects of under inflated tires and just worry when the manufacturers specs are not followed that's all

Underinflated...Overinflated... both are dangerous.

Every load has an optimum level.

@STLKayak: Wow, my HF $189 trailer looks almost exactly like yours, and it was horrible at first. The lug-centric design made it bouncy even when it was torqued correctly. Eventually I jacked it up and spun the wheel by hand until I got it to turn evenly. My trailer got me out on the road, but I wish I would have known how much time, money and energy I was going to need to spend in order to make it roadworthy. In hindsight, paying $500 for a bigger utility trailer may have been a better move.

I have had this same conversation with a lot of people. Between the Hobie PA and the trailer, every gas station and launch ramp turns into a discussion on kayaking, fishing, and my trailer. I thought I had done my research when I decided to build my trailer, but it took a lot of experimentation to get it right. It has been on the road for a year and a half now, and I finally have it dialed in just about perfectly. I have put 1500 miles on it in the last 30 days, and it rides SO MUCH better than day one. If I knew then what I know now, I would have done things different. But not with a larger utility trailer. I really like the way mine ended up. It is light and maneuverable, stores easily, and frankly I think it looks better and is more usable than most other purpose built factory trailers. I can put it in the water without fear and float the kayak on and off. I can highway at 70+ MPH and it just glides along. Ruff country roads full of pot holes, no problem.

I am hoping that I can provide insite for those looking to build their own trailer. I do not have all the answers but I might be able to share what I have done with other people to help them avoid the mistakes I made. Removing two of the three leaf springs, tire pressure at 15psi, bearing buddies, the list goes one...these all seem obvious now, but I had to learn them over time. If I were to built another one tomorrow, it would take me less than a day and ride almost perfect from day one.

On a side note... Some guy in St Louis county is advertising/selling what looks to be the same HF freight trailer, with a folding tongue, black powder coating and some basic accessories, for $1500! I could build mine again, with the Rhino Rack saddles, PVC bunks and the ladder rack on top for less than $500. Plus, I have really enjoyed the build.

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STLKayak
2020 Pro Angler 14 360
St. Louis, Missouri
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100005695487937

I have the folding 4x8 HF trailer - but no Hobie yet. I enjoy your comments. I suggest you use LED lights, however. HF offers a set for about $50. I have them and don't have to fiddle with the bulbs anymore. They can also be left plugged in and submerged. regular submissible lights depend on a good seal to trap air and if they leak you blow bulbs. The LED are much more trouble free.

It is funny, but the submersible lights with bulbs, that I use, have drain openings in the bottom! I have as yet to blow a bulb, but I did have to replace the HF wiring harness as the copper wire quite literally disintegrated. I will probably end up with LEDs at some point though. I honestly don't want to touch the freaking lights right now, they seem to be working well, and I hate the thought of chasing down a good (or bad) ground if I don't have to!

Hope you pull the trigger on that Hobie soon. You will not regret it!

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STLKayak
2020 Pro Angler 14 360
St. Louis, Missouri
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100005695487937

If you don't already unplug your lights before backing in, I blew a lot of conventional bulbs on my drift boat trailer backing them in when the bulbs where hot.


Brian

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On the bank of the Bow River

The bulbs do not blow if the only opening is the drain hole on the bottom. The air normally in the housing will not escape so the water can't come in and the bulbs are fine. I think this is the basis the manufacturer uses to say they are submersible. But if there is any other little opening on the light housing, the water will push the air out and the bulbs will blow. So sometimes they work OK. I always seemed to have to take the lens off at least once per season and wiggle the bulb to get contact. LEDs solve both issues.

Just to have peace of mind.
I bought the Led light from Walmart with lifetime warranty.

NAP - Peace of mind is over rated! I drove the 3 hours to Kentucky the first time this year with the right taillight out. Thank god three left hand turns make a right. Found that the ground was screwed up, so I ended up running an actual ground wire versus grounding on the trailer itself. Plus, this will make the transition to three wire lights easier when I do decide to change to better lights.

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STLKayak
2020 Pro Angler 14 360
St. Louis, Missouri
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100005695487937

Thanks you reminded me about that scenario STL. I may need to buy a backup emergency light like this one
https://www.etrailer.com/p-HF18A-MB.html. Any suggestion for back up lights?

But as per breaking lights. I suggest you find one with lifetime replacement warranty with no Q ask like the one in Walmart. I'm not scared anymore surmerging the lights when launching my kayak. I had expensive one before and it did break after a year. I'm not sure though if it's water related.

STL I have the same trailor and very happy with it but haven't been able to find wheel buddy's, any advise where I can find them? I like the rack, is that a kit?

Very nice work and thanks for the info.

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2010 PA 14
SW GA

I think you are talking about bearing buddy's


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

EON

Here is the link for the Bearing Buddy pair that work with the 12" HF wheels on my 1090lb trailer (HF Model 62645). They fit exactly, with no leakage. Be careful when filling them so as not to over do the grease. You can blow out the back seal and gasket, or if lucky you just make a bit of a mess on the inside of your wheels. I was lucky.

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Buddy-Bra/dp/B001NI8X2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467918566&sr=8-1&keywords=bearing+buddy+2047

The rack is a combination of a TMS pickup truck ladder rack installed in a way that raises the level from just over 30" to just over 48". The cross bars that came with the ladder rack were too short in my configuration, but I was able to find perfectly fitting chromoly tubing at a local steel supply shop to replace them - about $40 for two 5 foot lenghts. It was very important to install ladder rack the way I did because if I had installed it in the manner suggested for most trucks, it would have been only 30" over the bed of the trailer. That would have made water launching the kayak almost impossible as the kayak would have gotten stuck under the cross bars when I backed the trailer into the water. Even as high as it is, I sometimes have to put the seat down when retrieving the kayak so it will fit under the bars. The roof rack on top is also from TMS and has an 18" extension added in the middle. I actually bought the extension at Cabelas, on sale, as their roof rack and the TMS branded are exactly the same.

Here are the links for the ladder rack and roof rack...

https://www.amazon.com/TMS-PICK-UP-RACK-650-Pound-Adjustable-Utility/dp/B009VOQ05U?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_1098610_137716200_cm_rv_eml_rv0_dp

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ETGZZ5G/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is a better picture of the trailer with the ladder rack and roof rack. I have rods sitting on the top of the ladder rack, but i would not transport them there.



Let me know if you have any other questions or want a better photo or angle.

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STLKayak
2020 Pro Angler 14 360
St. Louis, Missouri
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100005695487937

yes you are correct, thanks John.

Thanks STL for the info, I'll be ordering a set shortly. I like the rack on the trailor but not sure I need it just yet. But it would be nice for the extra storage. I'm replacing the PVC runners now (went the cheat route) which cracked and thinking I will cap one end and install screw on caps on the other end for rod storage or what ever. Nice job and thanks again.

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2010 PA 14
SW GA

One last thing, I went out this evening for a few hours after work. Actually went for a few hours before work too. Anyway, the ramp at the small lake was pretty steep and was a great example of why I wanted the ladder rack to be considerably taller than the standard 30". If it was only 30" off the deck of my trailer I could never have wet launched or retrieved my kayak from this ramp. As it was, I had to have the seat down to get it back on the trailer.





I really added the ladder rack as a way to carry another kayak. I have cradles that fit the roof rack as well as my car top rack. I can also just use foam pads on the front and back of the roof rack...basically pool noodles (but black)...and they will allow me to carry almost any type of kayak on top. I use it a lot with my Ascend H12 guest kayak on top, and a little big bird yellow Pelican on top of my SUV. Also, i purchased a waterproof rooftop bag that fits the roof rack very well, and it lets me carry most of my camping/getaway gear above my PA leaving my car interior freed up.

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STLKayak
2020 Pro Angler 14 360
St. Louis, Missouri
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100005695487937