Hobie Cradle or PVC?

Time and again folks are using PVC as a support for the PA's both on trailers and in storage. There were 2 recent threads where one used PVC on a trailer and the other used cradles on a trailer. But Hobie recommends that the cradles they sell are better for preventing hull deformation. I am wondering if there is a real difference and if either method is acceptable.
Is this much ado about nothing?

Old Timer,

I think it probably boils down to personal preference. I just chose to go the PVC route. While the cradles support "across" the hull at 2 separate support points, the PVC supports down the length of the hull in the tri-hull grooves where the scupper holes are. I store my PAs on the trailer on PVC in a garage. That works for me.

Just my 2 cents worth.

_________________
Steve Stubbs
USAF (retired)

SeaDek Fishing Team
Unfair Lures Pro Staff
Ziptailz Ambassador

2015 Pro Angler 14 - Papaya
2018 Compass - Sea Grass

Hobie has not specifically discouraged the use of PVC pipes as bunks. A traditional boat trailer has a fore to aft set of bunks typically made from 2x4 wood covered in carpet. This is acceptable for most all boats.

There are a few issues with the PVC pipes. Not UV stable or protected from UV damage and can get brittle. Difficult to attach to pivot points. Not all hulls are symmetrical for to aft (PA17 is not).

Cradles hold the boat most secure and displace weight in a large surface area. We can form, stock and ship cradles... we can not ship long lengths of PVC pipe. The plastic cradles are protected by a UV resistant layer.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Thanks for the observations.
Why do I care?
I put a serious performance compromising warp in my Mokai hull and I don't want to do it again.

I trailer and store my loaded PA 14 on PVC. They were cheap, screw them up, replace them... no big loss..., figured I'd try the cradles later if there was an issue... been about a year and a half and they still work great.

I also use the pvc method, they ride up on both ends on 2x2 lumber which allows them to sag in the middle and conform to the hull. I also covered them in marine grade carpet with a construction adhesive. The pipes extend maybe 2 feet past the back of the trailer and this allows for a real nice launch and reload as the yak just slides nicely off and on as the pipe flexes under the weight. Over a year and probably 100+ launches, no problems.

_________________
Have Fun-Will Travel
2013 Outback-Sand
2014 Pro Angler-Papaya

Love pvc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cradle guy here. Well worth the few extra bucks. Also launching and loading is cake.

_________________
Vegasvec
2015 Pro Angler 17t
Lowrance Elite 5 Chirp
Zieman Trailer w/ Cradles

I just built a PVC rack for my PA14. It's a "portable" system that I use to both transport and store. I cartop on a Subaru Outback with a set of Thule bars across the top. I used to put the PA on foam blocks I'd slide onto the Thule bars, but that caused hull deformations underneath and cracking around the seat area due to the way I was tightening down the straps for transport.
I assembled a set of PVC tubes in the shape of a giant "H" (apx 10' long x 3' wide) that sit inside the Thule bars. The yak slides up there really easily, the tubes fit inside the Outback if I think the launch area is 'dicey' and when I get home I take the big "H" off the car, drop it onto a set of cinder blocks and the yak slides right up into place. One rack, made for both transport and storage, cheap and lightweight.
I used 3" PVC for the tubes that the PA sits on. If I had it to do again, I'd probably go with 2", which I think would fit the hull better and would be lighter weight. But I was concerned about the clearance between the hull and the Thule bars. Now I can see that I have the room. I may drill a few holes in the 3" tubes to lighten them a little bit - but I'm a little concerned about turning the PVC tubes in a giant flute!