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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 11:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2016 10:24 am
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Hello,
Glad to have joined the forum! I just got a PA 12 and am building up a Harbor Freight Trailer.
My question is: what kind of PVC tube size do people use to support their PAs on a trailer? I have read in multiple places some people using 2" but most seem to prefer 3" or 4"
I have put on 3" on my trailer but I want my kayak to ride higher as I am trailering 2 kayaks on the same trailer and with 3" tubes the PA hull tends to touch one of the fenders. So I am thinking of replacing the 3" PVC tubes with 4" which hopefully will be enough to get more clearance from the wheel fender.
In people's experience out there, do 3" or 4" PVC pipes fit the PA 12 hull profile better?
thanks in advance! :D
Newbie


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 3:59 pm 
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Welcome Newcal. I cannot offer any advice on trailering 2 kayaks as all I have is a 2014 PA14. I used 3" PVC and pretty much followed the instructions in this video from VentureTube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gOONSVjTEU

The only thing additional I did was that I covered the top 2/3rds of the pvc with bunk carpeting to make it slide and easier and add a little cushioning.

KansasYaker

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 5:39 pm 
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thanks for your response...At this point I am just wondering if 4" pipes will have a negative effect on the PA 12 hull.......
Newcal


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 6:04 pm 
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I can't see where it would negatively impact the yak. I don't think the surface area actually touching the bottom would change all that much. Maybe the rigidity would be different. I think as long as they are loosely attached at first so they are allowed to wander a little bit to the natural lines of the scupper holes before tightening down. Just my opinion. I store mine on the trailer and haven't noticed anything.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 11:16 pm 
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thanks so much KansasYaker, great answer....I actually tried the 4" this evening and they fit perfectly and raised the kayak enough to clear the fender!
Thanks again!!!! :D
newcal


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 9:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2016 8:43 pm
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Location: St. Louis, Missouri
I bought the HF #62645 1090lb trailer and turned it into a kayak carrier for my Jackson almost a year ago. Have about 9,000 miles on it so far. It has been fantastic, but it is made for heavier loads than my 90lb kayak. The one thing that I did that made a huge difference was to remove the bottom two leaf springs. This has made a world of difference in how the kayak rides, much less bouncing around. Anyway, I just bought a 2016 PA14, which I pickup next Friday, but did not consider that it might sit so low on the 3" PVC as to rub on the fenders or even the unistrut. I do like the 3" PVC because it does have some flex, but wondering if I am going to need to add some spacers between the unistrut and the PVC bunks to raise them a couple of inches. Side note: the extra 60lb of the PA should ride even better on this trailer.

Any comments or recommendations would be appreciated.

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 12:14 pm 
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STLKayak, I will post pictures to show everyone what I did. I decided to use the 4" PVC and left them loose with loose zip ties on so the kayak would find its "place" on the tubes.....I also am carrying an Ocean Kayak Scupper Pro on its side and right next to the PA 12. All of this fits well together, I did have to put some foam padding on the fender where the PA 12 is....just in case and I am still moving the carrier braces for the Scupper Pro until I find the right position in order to avoid the 2 kayaks to touch each other.
Like I said, I will post pics soon. :)
thanks,
Newcal


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:52 am 
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Location: Lake Park, GA
I would not secure the PVC with zip ties. I would bolt it to whatever cross member you are using to put the PVC on. Way too much weight to allow to shift and be held by zip ties, even on a Harbor Freight trailer. You should be able to figure out a method to keep the PA above the fenders while on the PVC and bolt the PVC down. I have used 3 inch PVC for almost three years with no affect on the bottom of the hull.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 10:54 am 
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Thanks Steve, I am considering your advice....thank you again,
Newcal


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 7:06 pm 
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Location: St. Louis, Missouri
I had 6' runners made of 3" PVC for the 12'6" Jackson. Just put new 8 footers on today, thinking the extra 2' will be just about perfect for the PA. Spaced them 10" on center. I am going to loosen them the first time I set the PA on the trailer. I will let the kayak determine the perfect spacing, then lifter her off and ratchet them down. I have looked at quite a few other designs and do not think there will be an issue with clearance. I am considering wrapping the PVC in bunk carpet - plan on using 3M spray adhesive. Not sure it will really add anything of value, but do think it will look great. Also upgraded the tail lights to submersibles, and installed bearing buddies. FYI - had to run a new wiring harness. The wiring harness that came with my HF trailer literally disintegrated. I have never seen wire shread like that before. Replaced with a harness I got from Rural King. Except for the bunk carpet, the trailer is set. I am counting the hours until I pick the boat up Friday morning. Work does not know it yet, but I am going to be sick...definitely catching a cold...cough...

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 8:11 pm 
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Location: Charlevoix, MI
I have been running with a HF folding trailer for about 4 yrs. It has held up pretty well considering the cost, but I have had to replace some hardware due to the cheap OEM stuff. The wiring harness was redone right out of the box. The following yr I had to do a weld repair near the folding joint. After the 3rd time a fender mount broke due to metal fatigue (heavy steel stock fenders + weak fender mounts + road vibration = trouble), I replaced the fenders with lighter plastic fenders that I got from etrailer.com. When re-packing the wheel bearings last week I found that one had nearly seized up since last yr. These are not standard sized bearings to be found at any auto parts shop, but they are available on Amazon. So 4 bearings + races and 2 oil seals are being replaced this week. And I will be adding Bearing Buddy's to protect my investment there. I expect that the tail lights will need to be replaced with submersible ones soon since water frequently leaks into the stock lamp housings when launching. In summary, the HF trailers are incredibly cheap, so expect to spend a bit in better quality upgrades as the miles take their toll.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:48 pm 
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Location: St. Louis, Missouri
newcal, just wondering which HF trailer your building out? The boat trailer like VentureTube or one of the others like the folding 4x8 Jim_MI has been using for years? Jim is right on the mark with needing to do upgrades on these trailers over time. Three months into owning the trailer, I took a right hand turn and the driver side fender took a left. Just flew off the trailer. If I knew then what I know now, I would have put LARGE washers on the bolts and it would have been okay. That being said, the young lady managing my nearest HF gave me the more substantial fenders with braces from a higher end HF trailer...a little drilling and more substantial hardware and it was better than new. As time goes on, and I put more miles on the trailer, I fix or add what is needed, which really has not been all that much. All in all I am actually shocked that my $189 trailer is still usable after a year, and even more shocked that it is in better shape now than when I first put it together.

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