Storing my PA14 with PVC under it. What size is best?

Anyone figure out what diameter PVC works best under the Yak to support it? How long of pieces should I get? It sits on the floor in my garage and I will use them for hauling the Yak in the bed of my truck as well. Thanks in advance!

I used 3" OD x 7 1/2' long Schedule 40 PVC on my Hobie Trailex trailer.

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Warrenton, OR

Thank you Dr. I will get it on the way home today!

I used schedule 40 3" PVC on my HF Trailer. Cut it to 8' and it seems about perfect. The only other observation I have is that all the forums say to space the tubes 10" on center. I loosened mine and set the kayak on them to let it find its own center. Turns out my PA14 like 11" on center. It is amazing the difference an inch can make.

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STLKayak
2020 Pro Angler 14 360
St. Louis, Missouri
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100005695487937

I know I never posted the 10" on center spacing for the 3" PVC pipes......I turned over my PA-14 and laid the PVC pipes on the bottom.....found the forward part is around 11" on center and the back is about 11 3/4" on center, so with the cross supports 67 1/2" apart on center, I mounter the PVC pipes using 1/4 x 20 SS bolts.

Since I knew "the PVC would try to find it's own center" when the PA was installed, I purposely drilled 7/16" diameter holes in the PVC and used 1/4" fender washers under the head of the through bolts.....I bent/shaped the fender washers to match the contour of the PVC before using and then through bolted the the PVC to the cross boards with a fender washer and Nylock nut on the underside.....I only "loosely tightened the nut" so the PVC could move and conform to the natural spacing of the PA-14 hull.
This photo shows my Hobie Trailex trailer modified to carry my 2013 PA-14.....I slide the PA on and off the trailer.....I have a 600# winch not seen to recover the PA on steep angled ramps.

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Warrenton, OR

DR. Stealhead. NIce trailer, and exactly what I was trying to get at as far as the centering. Also, I like the idea of the PVC at an angle on the back of the bunks to help get the kayak on easier. Probably going to steal a modified version of that for mine.

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STLKayak
2020 Pro Angler 14 360
St. Louis, Missouri
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100005695487937

STLKayak......As an old retired engineer, I learned a long time ago that someone else might have a good/better idea, so don't be afraid to "steal shamelessly"!

The couplers I used are 11 degree, designed for the PVC.....not cheap, but they do the job......I don't cement them together. Just slip fit and secure with a #8 self tapping SS screw on the inside edge and outside edge of the coupler in case they need to be taken apart for some reason.

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Warrenton, OR

I don't want to hijack this post, but I do have another question for Dr. S. What is the benefit of the carpet on the bunks? I have been thinking of adding it to mine, but mostly for asthetic purposes, plus I feel it will protect the bottom a little more. Hoping it would also cause a little more friction and less tendency for the kayak to slide forward during breaking. Also, how did you attach? You can buy 11" wide bunk carpet all over the place, which would wrap 3" PVC perfectly. I was thinking of using 3M 77 or 90 spray adhesive to attach, but worried it will not hold well long term on the PVC and what will look and work great at first will turn into a disaster down the road.

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STLKayak
2020 Pro Angler 14 360
St. Louis, Missouri
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100005695487937

I bought 12" wide carpet at Bass Pro. Important to note is that the gray 3" PVC I used is actually an outside diameter of approx 3.5". The 12" wide carpet wrapped around enough that the bare PVC is only visible if you crouch down. I lightly sanded/scuffed before glueing with something similar to 77. That was last week so we'll see....


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I used the carpet to add a layer of insulation between the PVC and hull. It has been on since 2013 and won't come off!

I went to my local carpet store and bought a indoor-outdoor carpet remnant about 12" wide....really cheap.....cut 2 strips 4" wide to cover the length.....wiped down the PVC with acetone....used blue painters tape to mask off the area not to be covered with carpet.......sprayed 3M Super 77 adhesive to both the carpet back and PVC pipes.....followed the instructions on the can and then stuck the carpet onto the PVC....that's it.

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Warrenton, OR

Great info guys... Looks like I have another project, but I think this one is going to be easy.

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STLKayak
2020 Pro Angler 14 360
St. Louis, Missouri
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100005695487937

I'll post this again here since this topic comes up so often:

"Be careful and keep an eye on the hull distortion with this type of storage. The weight on the outside of the PVC pipes can sag in time without any support and warp the hull. In worst cases, it can lead to cracks. These wide and heavy boats need support all the way across, especially in hot climates."

PVC piping is not a recommended storage method.

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Brendan Castile

I am looking to do the same to haul my outback, would only transport the outback this way then store it upside down. Would there still be issues in transportation?

The Outback won't warp the same way because it's much narrower and lighter. That should be just fine.

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Brendan Castile

i actually have an extra piece of uni-strut that is cut to fit on my trailer. If i add it, the PVC will be supported every 2 feel except for two feet on either end.

Thanks for the info. BTW: in another post, i saw pictures of a guy truck bedding his PA. He had the straps cinched thru the H-Bar, tightened around the support piece where the steering handle comes out. Is the H-bar or its supports considered structural, and suggested as tie down points? I would not think that to be the case.

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STLKayak
2020 Pro Angler 14 360
St. Louis, Missouri
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100005695487937