planning phase of roof rack for pa12 on small suv (w/pics)

The foundation is a Yakima fixed mount landing pads and skyline brackets with yakima round crossbars spaced 48" apart (very pleased with that setup).

I currently have just a 30" pad on both bars which worked fine and I could just leave it at that. but...

What I am considering is to connect the forward and aft yakima bars with pvc to get some of the benefit of a "bunks" as used on trailers.

Some ideas include:

1: level with crossbars
Use much thinner pipe insulation over the yakima crossbars. This allows for a 2" pvs (actually black abs) 3-way to fit snuggly over it. Do this on both fwd and aft bars and use 2" abs to connect them. This would have the pvc level with the crossbars. Would have less weight on the pvc but enough to encourage the pa12 to want to stay on the pvc.

2: rear higher then front
similar to 1 ^ but instead of using the 3-way on the aft yakima cross bar, just keep the pvc longer and let it sit ontop of the crossbar (attached with yakima bracket)and extend a few inches passed the bar. This would likely have significantly more of the pvc in contact with the hull.

additional notes if relevant:

The fwd and aft crossbars are pretty level to each other. I could mount my fixed mount pads in the front 5" closer to the rear and have a 41/42" spread. This would raise the front bar maybe an 1".

I have some ideas for adding more padding to the front bar as well as cover options to keep things UV protected and looking good.

I have the yakima boatloader which works but may find a way to dump that.

Option 2 would also allow for additional pvc to be added to allow for the bow to lean on during the raising/lowering of the pa12.

This is on a Mazda CX5.

I have a plethora of yakima/thule accessories which I don't think would work. I did consider 3 hulley rollers on the rear crossbar but thats not necessary.

Thoughts? Any advice would be welcome but I am already aware that a trailer is ideal.

Just a thought, but could you extend the PVC bars much beyond the cross members? Your suggested options only permit 48" of hull to be resting on the bunks. I am not familiar with the dimensions of you vehicle, but if possible, why not use the cross pieces as supports for the longest bunks your car would permit? Fastening the bunks to the cross pieces so as to permit some flexing of the bunks would also provide more even distribution of the load across the hull.

I set it up on my garage floor where the pvc rests on top of the rear Yakima bar. It extended 15" beyond the Yakima bar and that still allows my hatch to open. The hull seems to fit well. Maybe a bit more weight on the rest crossbar but the bunks are carrying a good amount of the weight. This was just a dry fit to see if there was obvious reasons to not go this route. I think if I can raise the rear pvc 1/4" the rear Yakima bar will have minimal weight directly on its pad. The pvc is 60" long and I don't think I can go any longer. This also levels the pa12 out nicely as it seems the bow wants to ride higher.

I have pics but not sure how to post them.

Attempt at adding pics. Dry fit but the bars are spaced as they would be on my car.





net photo upload

I'm pleased with the progress. Had my pa12 on it yesterday and was able to load and unload without incident(using yakima boatloader bar).

Hull contact is pretty well distributed. Starts about 12" after front bar. Thule slides are not carrying any weight. Just a positioning aid. Bow hits the padding which is currently just pipe insulation and a few layers of gorilla tape. A 2"od radiato hose should fit well there and once I find one I'll add it.

The ID of 2" pipe is equal to OD of 1.5" fittings. So right where the rear pvc pipe hits the crossbar I have a 1.5" cap. The bolt for the mighty mount prevents it from sliding fed any. I also bent a large washer to the contour of the 2" pipe which the bolt rests on. I would like to find a curved fitting to have between the pipe and the Yakima mighty mount though.

The front 2" pipe is glued to T connector. I also sanded the insides of a 2" connector and placed it at the connection point of the T to add some reinforcement. If I remove the front crossbar again I'll try to add some 1.5" fittings in that area as well.

I also drilled holes in a 2" cap for Yakima bars to add a finished look.






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