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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:12 pm
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Location: Ibiza - Balearic Islands - Spain
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Hi guys any ideas on how to get this jib to furl properly?

It does not fold correctly at the top and with wind unrolls and flaps like mad....while my boat is moured.

It is a hobie tiger jib set up on a H18...that I have made work by removing the 3 small battens it had on the leach and making a new longer forestay with no upper section.The top of the forestay connects to the sheave then the swivle that finaly is attatched to the mast with a shacle...
Then I have tied a line to the top of the sail...thru the sheave and back down to the sail cleat.

The jib seems to narrow a lot near the top and this part does not furl correctly...

Maybe it needs more tension? on the halyard?

I ´really need to get this solved soon if not my jib is going to get damage

The swivel and furler are working fine so it is nothing to do with them


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 Post subject: Furler
PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 8:33 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Perhaps a few more wraps of the jib might help, but you should probably use a snorkle cover. That is the only way to help prevent damage.

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Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 11:44 am 
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Location: Ibiza - Balearic Islands - Spain
It still does it even with the jib pulled to the max...Shurely snorkles are for sun protection...When I mean damage I mean it tearing because of the constant 24/7 flapping of the top of the jib.

Changing the subject would you recomend mounting a harken cleat on the top of the front x-bar for the furler line?
What model would you recomend? Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 12:53 pm 
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Location: Finger Lakes, Western NY
Hi splash,

I had planned on a Harken cam cleat for the furler too - I'll bet you have that same useless jam cleat that I do, right? :) Maybe it's just the line I'm using on the furler, or the fact that the jam cleat is 25 years old, but it just won't hold.

I had been tying the furler line off on the crossbar (a pain) until fall when I could take the tramp off and install a harken cam cleat, but my brother gave me a much better idea: Completely furl the jib, and take note of where the furler line passes through the cleat. Tie a simple overhand knot in the furler line at that point. That jam cleat won't hold the bare line, but it will keep the knot from passing through quite nicely. You may have to adjust the location of the knot a little bit to get it just right, but it seems to work pretty well. I wonder if this was the original design intent?

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Conesus Lake, NY
1976 Hobie 14


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 1:00 pm 
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Location: Finger Lakes, Western NY
Hi Splash,

I should have added - you can leave the knot there full time rather than un-tying it when you unfurl the jib. A single overhand knot will pass through the main part of the cleat if you want it to, but will hold in the "jaws" of the cleat if you pull the knot through and into the V-jam.

This also means that when you unfurl the jib and the furler line is taken up in the spool that the knot you tied will be taken into the spool too. I suppose it's possible that the knot could tangle up the furler a little bit, but I haven't had any problems with it so far.

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-Bill

Conesus Lake, NY
1976 Hobie 14


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 Post subject: Jib damage
PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 2:22 pm 
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First... I would not leave the jib up. Take it down. It is not designed to be left up 24/7.

Second... if you HAVE to leave it up, the snorkle cover can help prevent the damage, but we see chafing damage throughout jibs left up this way.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


Last edited by mmiller on Tue Jun 13, 2006 4:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Thats the one harryw :)
PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 2:33 pm 
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Location: Ibiza - Balearic Islands - Spain
You got it!

What harken cam cleat would you recomend? could you paste a model nº? Im really lost...
one of those with the top covered like in v shape?

something like this? would it work?

http://mauriprosailing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=HAR358&Category_Code=CAMCLEA

Whi do you need to wait till winter?? shurely only installing it on the top of the x-bar does not involve x-bar remval no?
simply drill 2 holes and rivet? No?

or how are these installed


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 Post subject: Right Cleat
PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 4:52 pm 
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Location: League City, TX
Splash:

That is the cleat I use. It works great. The line I use is probably 1/4 inch. I take the kine from the furler and make and run it through a swivel block and tie it to wire by the furler. Kind of like this; C---------------. That way for every inch I pull on the line it furls the reacher two inches, Also there are two things you MUST do. Make sure the jib sheets are loose before trying to furl and ONLY try to furl when you are head to wind. I took at few photos and will send them to you later.

Doug Snell
Hobie 17 # 007
www.tcdyc.com


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:33 am 
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Location: Ibiza - Balearic Islands - Spain
I cant realy understand.. how can a swivel block placed as you say make a 2:1 ratio on the furler line?
Pics please


Returning to the cleat bussines
Where did you place the cleat and how do you fix it? any photos of this?

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:59 am 
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 7:49 am
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Location: North Carolina
Had this problem with a Fox jib. Head to wind, pull down on clew and furl. Do not leave that jib up without a snorkle if you want it to last more than one season. The material is not as durable as the old dacron sails. It will fade rapidly. Curious why a Tiger jib, its smaller and won't create the right pocket on a 18. I am running a Tiger main and chute on my 18 for light wind performance but kept the original jib setup. Also I find a knot in the furler line works perfectly, no need for a cam, its either out or furled. Why complicate things. Also put a stop ball at the end of the line so it can't go thru the jamb cleat.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:14 am 
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Location: Finger Lakes, Western NY
Hi Splash,

I was only going to wait until fall because I figured it would be easier to drill out the old rivets and install new ones with the tramp removed. Now that the weather's nice, I'd rather be out sailing than un-installing/re-installing the tramp.

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-Bill

Conesus Lake, NY
1976 Hobie 14


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 Post subject: Harriw so....
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 3:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:12 pm
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Location: Ibiza - Balearic Islands - Spain
you plan on removing the 25 year old v clam and placing the new harken one we talked about in its exact same position (under front x-bar about a inch starboard of the striker post)??correct?

Wouldnt it be better to place it on the top side of the x-bar making it more accesible?? I´m shure I saw a photo of one mounted like this...

also how do you install it? simply drill 2 holes and rivet?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 5:04 am 
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oooops i put minr on top of the cross bar just used a v style cleat with a kont have not had any problems.

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paul
1981 Hobie 18 "Knot A Clew" sail #5445


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 1:10 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2010 1:06 am
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Hello guyz......................................
That is the cleat I use. It works great. The line I use is probably 1/4 inch. I take the kine from the furler and make and run it through a swivel block and tie it to wire by the furler. Kind of like this; C---------------. That way for every inch I pull on the line it furls the reacher two inches, Also there are two things you MUST do. Make sure the jib sheets are loose before trying to furl and ONLY try to furl when you are head to wind. I took at few photos and will send them to you later.


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