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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2006 1:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 7:33 pm
Posts: 30
Location: saskatchewan, Canada
Hi All, hope everyone had a good sail this weekend. We managed to get our 18 out for about an hour on Sat once the wind went down (gusts to 70-80 Km most of the day). Made the mistake of leaving the jib on the beach due to my young kids inexperience, experienced a few sessions of "irons"..... I broke the mast hinge (my stupidity). We figured out that the previous owner replaced the main halyard line with 5/16 instead of the 1/4 required. Also, need to replace the bearings on the traveller. Otherwise it was great to be under sail power again, the 18 is incredible!!
One or two problems I am having in regards to rigging: Am I correct in running the main sheet in the following manner; from the deadeye to the swivel cleat on the rear rail then to the block on the traveller and up to the boom blocks? Is there a good, better, best when it comes to lubing the main sail for raising?
Thanks, Dave


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 Post subject: Shakedown stuff
PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2006 2:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 1196
Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
From the boom blocks and mainsheet jam cleat, through the swivel jam cleat mounted on the rear cross bar, in between the sheaves on the traveller car, and out to the dead eye.

Before you feed the mainsheet/traveller sheet through the swivel jam cleat, measure and tie a figure 8 knot such that when the sheet is mounted, the knot will act as a 'stopper' and prevent the traveller car from 'slamming' into the end of the track.

Before you mount the jib, (while still on the beach,) raise your mainsail and haul in on your mainsheet as tight as it will go, which 'sets' the tension in the rig. Then you can 'raise' the jib to the correct height and tension.

The main sail should rise freely, and rarely needs lubing, unless something is bent or unless there is much tension in the battens. On our club H18's (all of which have many miles and many capsizes on them,) we often use the flat end of a paddle to push up on the batten caps to get the sail to rise smoothly. Proper 'feeding' of the luff of the sail at the bottom of the mast by the crew really helps a lot.

Check us out at www.kanatasailing.com, or our friends at www.nsc.ca

Come and visit with us the next time you are in the Nation's Capital.

Good winds

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 2:17 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 7:49 am
Posts: 1053
Location: North Carolina
John is right on main sheet rigging. Easy way to look at it is that the line performs two functions, it could be cut in two by all rights. From the block cleat up to the boom controls down haul, from the block cleat down controls travel port to starboard. So line exiting the blocks pulls the rear of the sail down. That same line then goes thru the swivel block on the rear crossbar, with the cam towards front of boat, thru traveler car and ties off at dead eye in bracket off rear of crossbar. The swivel cam then controls how far port or starboard the traveler can go. John incorrectly specified how to tension the rig. If you only tighten the main sail without changing the sidestay attachment the rig will be loose when the main is released or worse your jib will be holding the pressure of the sail in it. Heres my sequence, move one sidestay to upper most hole. Raise mast and attach forestay. Install boom and attach main halyard ring to boom where sail would attach. Move boom to port or starboard and tension. Adjust the sidestay on the same side you tensioned. Release that side and move to the other. Mine is tensioned to the third hole from the bottom, yours will be closer to four holes up as my mast is raked back. Using this process the rig is properly tensioned. Wind speed plays a role in how tight the rig should be when racing. A product called sailcoat will help with the tightness raising, can use wax as well. Feeding the luff is important, don't just grab the halyard and start pulling. Slow and steady is best.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 2:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
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Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
I guess there are many ways to 'set' the tension in the rigging. In my earlier reply, I assumed that the tension was pre-set.

Another way might be to raise the mast, and pin the shrouds temporarily in the top hole. Then get a beefy crew member to haul down on a hiking wire, and reset the pin on that side, say at No 3 or No 4 or whatever. then do the other side.

My point was that one should 'set' this tension BEFORE raising the jib, then raise and tension the mainsail OR use your method so that the rig is 'tight' prior to raising the jib.

Many years ago, I blew the head of the jib off the halyard, because I did not know better. Cost me a weekend's sailing!

cheers

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 10:10 am 
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 7:49 am
Posts: 1053
Location: North Carolina
John, I did the same thing at a race. Switched boats and forgot how to tension the 18 properly. Left the sidestays loose, pulled the rig tight with the jib. Race starts, we drag into the water and out thru the break. I notice I am in front of everyone, how exciting, and the jib clew tears out of the sail. I was so mad at myself when I realized what I had done.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2006 11:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 7:33 pm
Posts: 30
Location: saskatchewan, Canada
Thanks guys, that will help alot. We are heading out to the lake tomorrow, will put your advise to task.
Hoist the mainsail, swab the poopdeck, etc. etc.
Dave


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