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 Post subject: Snap shackle question
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 11:35 am 
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How strong should a snap shackle be for use attaching the jib head to the forestay at the mast tang? I want to be able to remove the jib for storage. It is currently tied on with a fancy knot the Dealer used :D . I understand that the forestay takes most of the stress. Is this correct?Thanks.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 11:55 am 
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What model boat?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 11:59 am 
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Hobie getaway.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 12:03 pm 
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You would need to change the way the jib is attached to the forestay wire. Stock jibs are set up with the wire thru the luff and no zipper to be able to remove the jib. You could use jib hanks and a halyard to hoist or add a zipper and halyard system like the H18.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 2:02 pm 
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Ok, so upon further inspection I noticed that the Forestay is attached by a shackle, that is attached just below the swivel , that is then attached to the mast tang. Then the jib head is attached to that same shackle as the forestay by that fancy lashing I mentioned earlier. The shackle has a pigtale. So I could undo that shackle with the pigtale each time. Could I replace the pigtailed shackle with a quick release shackle and still be safe? That way I could remove the forestay and jib which are both covered by a sock.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 5:52 pm 
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You goal is to be mast up... without jib?

The Getaway has to have the jib luff wire in place... it is the forestay. The jib is sleeved on to the wire. There is no practical way to remove the jib in this configuration and leave the mast upright. You would have to add a halyard system and zipper the sail on and off the forestay.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 6:57 pm 
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Oh no, I'm sorry I wasn't clear. I want to remove jib with mast down. I thought i would use a quick release shackle at the mast tang.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 7:23 pm 
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I think you might find that a snap shackle that is large enough has a clasp foot that won't go through the hole in the hound. But to answer your first question, the diameter of the snap shackle piston has to be the same or greater than the clevis pin at the chainplate.

Most sailors are paranoid about those shackles at the hound and wire them so they can't come undone. Nobody likes to be dismasted (speaking from experience, been dismasted 5 times (or is it 6?)). BTW, it isn't fun, but the mast comes down rather sedately because the air trapped under the mainsail cushions the fall.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:34 am 
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Thanks. I will stick with clevis pin. This forum rocks.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 2:47 pm 
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tpdavis473 wrote:
Most sailors are paranoid about those shackles at the hound and wire them so they can't come undone.


Yeah! I was dismasted on my H-17 when a side shroud broke! And on my Getaway, the jib forestay clevis unscrewed itself and I caught it just before the mast fell - talk about lucky. Now everything that holds up the mast is safety wired.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 5:19 pm 
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All my dismastings were on my former boat, the F24 tri. Some were because of swage failures in the wire. After the third such event, I switched my shrouds to vectran. I trust modern hi tech rope more than old tech stainless wire. If I ever need new shrouds for my Getaway, I'll make them myself from vectran or dyneema (or whatever is the "new" good stuff).

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