14/16 adjustable upper rudder castings

I think I know the answer, but......

Are the adjustable upper rudder castings/arms the same on the 16 as they are on the 14? I've been looking for adjustable upper rudder castings for my 16 and I know a guy that has some off of a 14. Will they switch out?

My guess is no.

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James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909

I have the arms if the castings are the same.

Yep, same casting. But the arms are different. Might work going from a 14 to a 16 though, the arms are shorter, but then the tiller cross bar probably wouldn't be the correct length.

Karl is correct casting are the same but the arms are different.

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Brad Stephens
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Awesome. I think I'll finally get the rudder rake I need. Thanks for the quick replies.

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James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909

I switched mine out last year. That adjustment takes some of the slop out of the rudder lock (cam) and, as a byproduct, limits the fore/aft movement of the rudders. You won't get much forward rake out of it though. At best you are just limiting the aft movement of the rudder. If you're looking to match some heavy mast rake you'll probably need to fill and drill. I've noticed on many older boats people have cut or removed the fiberglass lip on the transom where the rudder pin goes through, presumably to get more forward tilt from the lower casting. I'm guessing this was some kind of racing trick or something. Either that or a lot of bad trailer drivers were backing their boats into walls.

Thanks sunvista,
I am planning on upgrading to some EPO's soon and I wanted the adjustable castings so I can hopefully do more adjustments without having to drill and fill as much. Plus, I have quite a bit of slop in my current set up. Glad to know it will take out some slop. Thanks.

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James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909

abbman, if you have obtained older used upper castings you may find that the adjustment screws are seized (especially in salt water), the hex key heads are stripped out or both. If that is the case it is a real pain to grind or hacksaw them off and the replacement slide plates are kinda pricey. Make sure you use a good anti-seize when setting them up. I thought hex key screws were a little impractical considering the torque you need to put on them so they don't move the first time you lock your rudders. I switched mine out to ordinary 5/16 SS bolts. When tightening them make sure you are pulling the wrench forward to keep the plates from sliding back.

Sunvista- just noticed you are in Va Beach. Are you doing Sail the Bay.

I'll be on a different kind of cruise then....Royal Caribbean!