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NeubaurRL
PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 6:46 pm 
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Location: Minneapolis (Apple Valley), Minnesota
Will post is tommorow

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MVD
PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 10:00 pm 
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For a rear mast support, go to Murrays.com and search for "Rear Mast Support with "V" Stainless Steel".

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NeubaurRL
PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:02 am 
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Location: Minneapolis (Apple Valley), Minnesota
NeubaurRL wrote:
On my H18 trailer I put old tube socks on the guide rollers to keep the black marks off the hull if the boat slides to one side or the other. The dealer set my up my trailer with pivoting double rollers on all four points of contact.


Couldn't figure out how to insert a photo so put the links where the photos are out on flicker.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/101077209@N06/18730579094/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/101077209@N06/19357121941/in/dateposted-public/

I added a spacer between the trailer crossbar and the roller mount to raise the boat 1 1/2" because the sprung weight with the boat, two toy boxes, spare tires and beach wheels occasionally on hard bumps the trailer fenders would kiss the inside of the hull and with the extra height they don't.

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2001 H18 w/SX wings & spinnaker #16740 (purchased new)
1989 H18 w/SX wings #14565 (purchased new, sold 2000)
Would buy another if Hobie would build it.
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smattie
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 8:41 pm 
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The issue is rubber rollers. I'm going with polyurethane rollers. More expensive, but zero black marks. It looks like this option would raise the cost of the trailer by around $100. Maybe leave it optional? Tube socks are cheaper!
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AntonLargiader
PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 6:56 am 
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NeubaurRL wrote:
...because the sprung weight with the boat, two toy boxes, spare tires and beach wheels occasionally on hard bumps the trailer fenders would kiss the inside of the hull and with the extra height they don't.


Axle-mounted fenders? That isn't very common, is it?

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smattie
PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 8:21 pm 
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It's an interesting idea, but welding supports to an axle causes a potential weak spot in the axle. Besides, rubber-ride torsion axles makes this impossible as the spindle moves independent of the axle tube. I'm using galvanized axles with rubber torsion suspension. Springs and salt don't mix well.
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AntonLargiader
PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 3:28 am 
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I don't think it's that interesting, but it seemed to be how NeubarRL's trailer works (per the text I quoted). More unsprung weight and the fender brackets get extra fatigue.

That said, I have seen it done, and I think it was with a torsion bar.

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Tom King
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 2:01 pm 
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smattie wrote:
I'm a partner in a aluminum trailer manufacturing company and owner of an H16 and H14. I want to design a new trailer for my H16 and would love input from you trailer owners. I'm definitely putting LED lights and waterproof connections for the lights. I'm also going to use rubber torsion suspension. Springs are a maintenance item. EZ-lube spindles are also a must. I'm planning on 20.5 tires (fatter for traversing soft earth and sand). I was going to use rollers on the inside to guide the hulls as my current setup has rollers outside that mark up the hulls, but would consider carpeted bunks if you all feel this is a better route. I'd also like to come up with a way to better support the mast for travel. Mine currently rests on the rear crossbar with a rubber insulator to keep it from rubbing. Any other suggestions, ideas, photos would be greatly appreciated.


Pm me, or email if mine is listed here. I built a custom trailer that will haul two 21's. I have pictures I can send. Rear mast carrier mounts to rear crossbar. It a post that is behind the tiller crossbar. On top is a bow roller for a boat trailer. You roll the mast back to raising position. The socket that holds it vertically also has a socket for storing it horizontally.

On the front crossbar is an A-frame used for raising and lowering the mast with a winch.

I have pictures I can send if interested.
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flatlander
PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 7:31 pm 
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Location: Lake of the Ozarks
Quote:
Keep the boat as low as is feasible.

I like this for rolling down the road. We put the H16 trailer rear crossbar on top of the frame, and the front on the bottom. Keeps the tramp level. H14 put both on the bottom and she stays really low in your slip stream.

The double rollers, at least on the rear, are a must. Nice in the front as well to distribute the weight a bit better.

Build a prototype and set the boat on it before fixing the axle location. We've been able to move the axle WAY forward and still have the proper amount of tongue weight. With proper diameter tires, one person SHOULD BE able to move a cat/trailer around to the shed without an annoying tongue wheel.

The KARAVAN trailer will exhibit the same failure that srm mentioned if you don't re-inforce the pivot point.

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