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 Post subject: Anodized Aluminum
PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:46 am
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Location: Boise, Idaho
I have a 1985 H18 SX. The aluminum on the crossbars was originally black anodized, but has become faded on the tops of the bars. I am thinking of possibly having them powder coated black again this winter. It there a process of re-anodizing instead of powder coating that may bring them back closer to the original finish and be more resilient to scratches?


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 Post subject: Anodize
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 9:11 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
There is a process to strip and re-anodize aluminum. Requires complete dis-assembly down to the raw crossbar. Not sure of a vendor that would do just one part though. Usually a large batch process when we have it done. Look for a metal plating business.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 9:19 am 
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Location: Boise, Idaho
Thanks Matt, I will check around town and see if that is a process anyone here might do. I have also thought of taking the cross bars off and sanding them with fine sand paper and then polishing them up. They would be aluminum color instead of black, (which is not original) but may look nice.

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Tad Jones
1985 Hobie 18 - Redline
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 3:08 pm
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Location: Massachusetts
Canb't you just paint the anodized surfaces?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 12:36 pm 
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I had thought about painting them too, but I'm not sure it would be as tough as anodized. Seems like the paint could chip off & scratch easier. I suppose if the crossbars were prepped correctly, it would help eliminate any chipping or scratching.

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Tad Jones
1985 Hobie 18 - Redline
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 Post subject: paint
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 12:55 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Very tough to get paint to not chip. They look great... for awhile.

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 Post subject: Penetrol
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 1:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 11:27 am
Posts: 538
Location: League City, TX
Idahosailor:

Someone on one of the forums said Penetrol will make the black anodized aluminum look like new, West Marine said same thing. Have yet to try it, BUT at $20 or so a can, worth a try.

Doug


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 3:07 pm 
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
Just gave me an idea! Stand back. I was just thinking about the side rails on a 14/16, what about using rhino liner, or another spray on bedliner for the side rails. Zero water retention, plenty grippy for feet. But probably hard on the butt. I wouldn't do it to the beams, no reason. Any thoughts?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 7:18 pm 
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Location: West Maui
Weight?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 4:50 am 
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Location: Massachusetts
I used penetrol on the black anodized mast on my old 21SE. It definitely improved the appearance and was easy to apply. It turns the finish from very flat and graying black to a nice dark black with a little bit of a sheen. It will build up if you're not careful but is generally easy to brush on.
Its been two seasons and the durability is pretty good considering how easy it was to apply.
What it does not do is cover any scratches in the black.
I'm going to look for the proper primer to use over the anodize, that will be the key to making paint stick to it, as it is in any paint application.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 4:56 am 
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Location: Massachusetts
I just got this in a quick google search.
It explains why most folks can't get paint to stick to anodized surfaces.
Three different coats and I'll bet they're all very pricey.

Code Product Description

Pretreatment
(if required): Carboline Rustbond Penetrating Sealer
Distributed by Vista Paint Corporation Cross-Linked Epoxy
First Coat: Carboline Carboguard 880
Distributed by Vista Paint Corporation Cross-Linked Cycloaliphatic Amine Epoxy
Second & Third Coat: Carboline Carbothane 133 HB
Distributed by Vista Paint Corporation
OR
Carboline Carbothane 134 HG High Gloss
Distributed by Vista Paint Corporation


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 5:43 am 
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
hobie1616 wrote:
Weight?


I don't honestly know. Probably not much more, if any than a wet carpet. Probably a bit more than the neoprene, but ounce's at best.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 6:20 am 
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As a point of reference on the truck bed liners. A spray in liner of a full size pick up adds 523 lbs. I would never have thought that until we did some weight test where I work which is a Ford dealer.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 8:00 am 
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Location: Massachusetts
I agree on the wieght factor of the truck bed liner. Weight is everything for catamaran speed.
Surface prep and primer are the critical factors in painting difficult surfaces. A can of Krylon will not stick to anodized aluminum.
Search the web a bit and you can find fairly simple solutions, a few extra steps you might not be used to but they make sense to me. I used to run a furniture shop and have worked quite a bit with finishing techniques, though not ever with aluminum.
Here's what I found that looks workable:
http://www.scottpaint.com/files/ta/SOLU ... uminum.pdf


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 2:57 pm 
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Location: Boise, Idaho
I just sprayed a steel ramp for a utility trailer with that bed liner. (Approx. 4'x3' ramp. It took four standard spray cans of bed liner spray. It added a little weight (I guess the same as what the material in four cans weigh....I would guess 2-3 lbs) It is really grippy stuff to walk on.

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1985 Hobie 18 - Redline
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