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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 9:21 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2014 4:38 am
Posts: 13
Hi, I've heard that there is a way to reduce the amount of space between the (2) boom blocks and the mainsheet block (on the old 5:1 Hobie 16 system) to go block to block more effectively thus allowing more mast rake while keeping proper leech tension when block to block. I know I can just purchase a new 6:1 Harken set up but I'm trying to save a few dollars. It has something to do with drilling out the pin on the mainsheet block and attaching the two blocks on the side or something to that effect. I can probably get any 4 inches or so.Anyone heard of anything like this?
Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 11:34 am 
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Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 8:28 am
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Location: Clinton Lake, KS
I have done it. It worked pretty good and was cheap enough to do..

Make sure you work with the blocks in a tub, or someplace you will be able to catch the little balls and 'needles' in the blocks.

You simply drill out the rivets holding the blocks together, cut off the stuff you don't use and then buy some 3" (maybe 3 1/4") 1/4 20 stainless bolts to bolt everything back together.

It required having an extra single block to do the 6:1




viewtopic.php?f=14&t=7964







That being said... I really like this game.. So while that 'works' I think you should treat yourself to a nice set of new Harken blocks and a bit of Salsa mainsheet.. You won't regret it.

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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 4:24 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
If nothing else, I would swap out the seaway cam cleat for a harken cleat. Much easier to snap the sheet in and out of the Harken. Also, the old mainsheet systems used seriously large diameter line. I would upgrade to 3/8" or 7/16". It will run through the blocks much more easily.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 7:06 am 
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Hi, Thanks so much for all the insight. I'm just about ready to make the modifications. 2 questions.

1. How did you remove/cut the one boom block becket to attach to the ratchet block? (I know I can leave it and use it as a tie off, but I's like that bit of extra space to go block to block and prefer to attach an eye strap for the tie off to the new double up top)

2. What type of screw is used to replace the one in the cam cleat to get it flush when remounting?


Thanks so much in advance!


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2015 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2013 12:33 pm
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Location: Huntsville, AL
I turned my old 5:1 setup into a low profile 6:1 setup just as ronholm described. This winter I decided to take it up another notch by eliminating the beckett as matt described. To do this I fabricated some spacers on which to mount an extra eyestrap, then tied off the line to it. I had to also add a bend in the screws for extra clearance from the blocks (without this, the rope was dragging). See images below:

Side View:
Image

Front View:
Image

With Main Sheet and upper block:
Image

BTW, I ground down the excess 1/4-20 bolts sticking out of the side in the final configuration.

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2012 H16 (with 2018 Cayman Main) #115139
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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2015 3:22 pm 
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Thanks. Looks like a super job! I was thinking of mounting the eye strap to the side of the block. What size eye strap did you use. I hope to get one that aligns with the bolts with a little massaging...


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2015 4:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2013 12:33 pm
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Location: Huntsville, AL
Matt wrote:
Thanks. Looks like a super job! I was thinking of mounting the eye strap to the side of the block. What size eye strap did you use. I hope to get one that aligns with the bolts with a little massaging...
I used an eye strap from an old jib traveler block/car (the old pull down to release kind). I don't recall the exact bolt spacing, but it was exactly the same as the main block with no massaging. Good luck with your project... post a pic when it's complete.


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2015 7:07 pm 
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Will do. Thanks again!


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